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bit schoolboy but, whilst it's fresh in mind, thought this might be useful to others what to try if your front brakes appear to be pulling to either side, or you're experiencing uneven pad wear other than basic tools, need: copper grease moly grease thread lock wire/suede brush file...

slow puncture or leaky valve

is this PE2 only? just ordered a set of 4 of these Hankook V12evo tyres that a few on here have mentioned; £260 delivered from Camskill (that's 205/45/16)

just looking a list of passwords i've accumulated, and there's one for a site called VISAonline. thought i'd have a look at it, then noticed that my PC security wasn't sure about the site (without knowing much about it, going to suggest that people DON'T! go looking for, or on it) it's...

^definitely you can get ones with a 'claw' on the end as well chances are it'll have gone by now if you've used the car since though

as other thread, try tightening the rack clamps b'stard tight (without overdoing it!)

has it been serviced before and could they have rotated the tyres? sounds properly odd

if it will do it whilst the car's stationary, it'd be much easier to trace than otherwise (and especially if you've access to a ramp/pit). if not, you'd probably have to resort to feeling for play by levering, or disconnecting/removing bits to check for wear it could just be that the rack...

good, good i'd not spotted that it's snapped below the collar and that it was recessed - would have been a right job to get that out if it'd been screwed into the 'box and not a nut

it's a double-ended bolt - you'll need a spanner on the lower nut (it's a wheel off/axle stand job)

i'd say that's going to be a bit of a pain, due to the limited access it's held on by a nut (accessible from wheelarch); you can get a spanner on it, but can't really turn it (there isn't room) welding a nut onto it would probably be the easiest if you've got or know someone with a welder

i'd make sure the bleed nipples are all free before starting. and use an Easibleed, as they're a doddle to use one-man (just make sure it'll seal properly before filling the bottle - it's explained in the instructions) don't need to raise the car or remove the wheels to do the rears, but you...

as Da, practically speaking, it doesn't seem to make any odds the 'correct' order is to start with the wheel furthest the master cylinder (NSR), then the other in the diagonal circuit (OSF), then the other rear, etc

master cylinder problems can be intermittent, as can the effect of air/water locks (which move around) you're going about it the right way - renew the fluid first, as that's the likeliest (and cheapest) fix

that sounds as though they either didn't bleed properly (maybe related to the ABS valve?), or a master cylinder fault

just guessing, but may be an airlock somewhere in the system; when was the fluid last changed, do you know?

not had a look, but is it possible to adjust the striker pin/latch in the door frame?

it might have been stuck on the bolt - try letting the jack off and/or thumping the bolt to see if that does it. there's nothing else holding it on, anyway

if it's particularly bad, it could be the engine mounts or suspension bushes/etc

it doesn't matter, but you may as well do it afterwards (may need to draw some fluid from the reservoir if you're also fitting new pads and your olds were noticeably worn)

the stuff you've written about them on here is interesting, but i just don't want to 'over tyre' the car, really. there's expense as well (although i realise they're pretty cheap already) are they defo not available in 195?

that's encouraging, as the Contis are not lasting me much more than 10k anyway. how many miles do you reckon you've already put on them? looking for summer tyres, BTW - snow will be gone shortly:D

thanks. how are you finding wear?

when he says it isn't working, what's happening with the lever? is it loose? ed. btw, according to Haynes (have you got one?), it's a drum/shoe off job for the cables

thought i'd snapped the filler flap off a couple of weeks ago; was frozen shut and wouldn't return flush with the body once i'd opened it (OK once thawed). a lot of the plastics on these are crappy anyway, but they're more brittle in the cold (snapped an arch liner the other day, which 'might'...

firstly, i know there are countless threads about tyres on here, so apols in advance i'm running Contisport Contacts, but am fed up with the wear rate and fancy a change. think i'm looking at three different tyres, all recommended by different sources: Hankook V12 - but can't seem to find...

i've had a go in a Ford Fairlane (one of those pictured) and a contemporary Cadillac Eldorado. 50's Americana is just amazing - massive, massive cars (lay down in the boot, length ways; enough headroom to play tennis in the cabin) and electric/powered everything - amazing for the period what's...

snapped spring in May was the last failure. car's been good over the summer just serviced it and found that it needs new tyres all round and most of the brakes doing as well, so that'll ensure an expensive start to the new year. the balance is restored:coffee:

the belts are mechanical (inertia reel), so shouldn't be affected by any problems you're having with dash lights they shouldn't be locked under normal driving conditions - only when they're given a sharp jolt. you can check that the inertia reels are working properly by gently pulling the...

any chance of posting a part number?:)