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would i have to buy a new modem and some sort of xbox dongle to do that?
going to have to get the whizzkid round for this i think
cheers for the advices
there's just a phone lead and USB connection on the modem
tbh, it's just a mess of wires to me, all with different ends:o
don't want to spend much more than i need do to get it running. that official xbox router looks as though it has a USB socket on it - presumably it just plugs into...
probably easiest to take the engine mount off and the upper gearbox mount, to check they're still serviceable (they can tear/deform)
whilst doing that, make sure the bolt that the upper gearbox mount sits on is tight (there's a nut on the bottom of it, accessible from wheel arch), and try...
cheers for those. the console came with what's described as an ethernet cable, but i can't really use it as the machines are in different rooms
think i'll have to get my bro to come round and do me a favour for once. will look into the suggestions; thanks
bugger. been told that i did, but was confused by the usb stuff i'd read
thanks for that
don't suppose you've any recommendations for cheap ones available on the High St?:o
hi. can't be doing with ringing anyone about this just now, so thought i'd ask on here
according to some of the official xbox stuff i've read, i can just use my computer's USB modem, but the xbox doesn't seem to be recognising the hardware. the lights are OK on the modem, but no interaction...
have you still got the springs you've taken off? bit of a faff, but putting them back on will tell you if it's related to the shorter springs or not
assuming they're sat correctly, it could just be that they're shorter and that you've even more play in the top mounts - they're 'loose' even...
personally, wouldn't, but sounds as though you're keen and as long as you're not unduly bothered about the fact that you'll lose the majority of what you spend on the mods (in eventual resale value), don't see a problem
everyone's done it - just need to be 'comfortable' with the losses...
smoking; just noticed that my car's slid about 4ft down the slight incline on my drive:rolleyes:. the works Transit was sliding away from me whilst i was getting out of it on occasion earlier as well
not had rain ontop of snow here for 10-15yrs that i can remember - huge variation in the...
ignoring the ABS red-herring, i find the Cup's brakes exceptionally sharp/immediate in this weather - drove mine on the fresh snow the other day and was having to be ridiculously light on the pedal to avoid either of the front calipers grabbing. don't think i've driven anything else with such an...
if there's enough thread exposed and enough room around it, wire brush the corrosion off, spray with WD/etc, lock a couple of nuts onto the thread, and start the bolt by winding it up into the car (can usually finish them off from the cabin once they've started)
it's entirely dependant upon...
might have been able to wind them out from underneath if there was enough thread available (one of the first alternative methods to check). impossible had they been in a box section, obviously
you can buy the mesh ring seperately (Bosal 256781; about £5) but will also need the cat-to-system gasket (256008)
for what little you'd save, may as well buy the NWP kit for all new nuts/bolts, and buy the cat-to-system gasket seperately. the nuts/bolts will be in a state if they're original...
only because i checked for someone else recently, i know that mine's 13cm from the bottom of the arch to the top of the front wheel rim (original springs)
pc99-x12, and the relevant Pioneer patch lead (pc99/pioneer)
shame you've not an Alpine, as i'm selling a pair of leads that originally came from Halfords. can buy them a fair bit cheaper online by the way
as per other thread, if the movement is definitely in the column, i'd suspect the column bearings or the universal joint. should be easy enough to check the UJ with an assistant. to check the column bearings, i think you'd need to strip the plastics away from the column to be able to see...
unique. only stickers though
what you don't want to be doing is cutting 'cooling slats' in your front wings, which i remember seeing someone on here had done to theirs
this isn't something i've fiddled with on mine, but just been to have a look at it, out of interest
it looks as though the bolts are captive and that you pull the rubber plugs out of the floor (underneath the car) to get at the nuts. i'm assuming. is that not what yours looks like?
they're about £60 for a car set if you buy the rubber donut and the bearing race from somewhere like ECP (got part numbers if you want them - although i think they're on search as well)
they'll be 'better' as the rubber donuts compress with age, but you'll have the same problem before too...