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not good. which compound are they, and how old? got to take mine out soon to fiddle with the shims. as said; £120, you don't expect this sort of thing good luck with CL

i've got the ECP part numbers if they're of any use (or was that GSF?)

it's only a ding. he's probably just caught a cyclist or a roadside bush or something - Italian rubbish

no - should just be a small bearing and a rubber donut

i think most cars do this if you move too quickly, as lots use a straight-cut, non-synchronised gear

sounds like the same block; if so, you need to put it back on; or fit an adjustable bias valve, or some inline compensator valves (potentially tricky as you'd need info about the valving)

getting better, but i find it difficult to be consistent with as well. it's 2->3 at revs that mine doesn't like much, although it seems to depend upon its mood

there'll be a valve or valves in the rear lines from the master cylinder which reduce the hydraulic effort in the rear brakes - otherwise you'll end up with locking rears (fronts do most of the work) on the 1*2s, it's a block over the rear axle which also acts as the load sensing valve

you can look after the box by blipping the throttle with downshifts - seems to help alot; not much you can do about problem upshifts, though, other than take them steady. spoils the car imo - at odds with the nature of the rest of it. still, could be worse

if you've got a Haynes manual, it's identical to the procedure in there for the hydraulic rack i didn't have to disturb the exhaust or subframe when i did mine, but it's a 172Cup - don't know if there's anything in the way on the more complicated cars. still a s**t job, though

is the load sensing valve not also the rear compensator?

don't think so, but it's difficult to say from video sound; hate anything like this! i think mine's probably going to be a tensioner or water pump bearing/similar. it'll only screech for a second or so, starting from cold, so headache to pinpoint amongst the various components it could be...

hi; just a quick wonder about suspected belt/bearing noise. the car's been screaching on start-up for a couple of days; it doesn't whilst being driven, but does seem to be emitting this odd whistling/rustling noise (sorry, impossible to describe these things, i know) - does this sound familiar...

if it's just a u-bolt clamp or an olive clamp, you could probably pick one up for a couple of quid from Kwikfit/etc if you're feeling flush and the exhaust's a sleeve fit, could be worth using a Norma/Mikalor type clamp, which are more effective by the way, if you've an exhaust supplier who...

i've these RC5+ CLs in at the moment and like them; they're reasonably dusty but aren't chewing the discs haven't tried DS2500's, so can't compare loads of threads on here about pads - pick a brand, basically

i used hydraulic hose, which is reinforced and won't collapse but will still allow some flex -3 pieces, cable-tied left/right/below the 'X'. still looks fine about a year on to get the box straight again, slacken the back box to system clamp and turn it up; tighten as much as you can

could try Protyre - may be others, but there are branches in Westbury and Weston

by winding the pistons back in to accomodate the new pads, you disturb the automatic handbrake ratchet mech in the caliper - just need to pump the foot pedal to reintroduce pads to disc and it should self-adjust could just be that the new pads need bedding in

did wonder if they may have a ptfe liner or something, but didn't want to butcher mine; would explain things anyway

alot of these places will put on the full rig and measure the angles at all four wheels but, as only the front toe is adjustable, you'll only be charged the lower figure

last time i checked mine they'd worn about a mil over 2000ml they're not available in 195, only 205 think BrownBear said he got decent mileage out of his (12k+ ?), on road and track

didn't notice any difference in pedal feel when i did mine; i think the main point is in track work - rubber hoses can expand as they get hot, giving you an inconsistent pedal. should last longer as well

try sweet talking dealers to see if you can get one at trade - £90's mental for a car battery!

i've BB only with Tiscali and they've been giving me MAC codes (haven't gotten around to using them). funnily, my speed's gone up recently if you move, you loose your email addresses i was considering BE Value (£7.50/month; 'up to' 8meg) - lots on moneysavingsexpert, etc in your position...

have you got those filter things on all of your 'phones?

i'm going on now, but post#16 as well - open the hub up a little with a masonary chisel/etc - could be that it's been done up so tight that the bolt/passageway are slightly bent. it'll help anyway. fin

just spotted 'centre punch' - use a parallel punch; centre punch might even have made it worse if its spread the thread get Fred round:star:

worst comes to the worst, take the hub off with the balljoint and attack it in a bench vice (assuming you've not oxy gear)

mine's a daily and is fitted with the Vibratechnics/Powerflex - depends what you're used to i think; for the control they have over engine movement, i don't think they vibrate that badly at all, but others'd probably think it awful if you're even remotely turned off by the prospect of...

i'm sure the spanner i had a go at was 17mm, but there may be different sized unions for the different racks (?). vague recollection that the other feed pipe was a different size as well and not sure which is which