Search results

62Nm according to the workshop manual

it's a good job the wings are plastic, otherwise they'd rot in no time with loads of wet muck packed in there

if you've got an old file handle/similar, that might help (over the allen key), otherwise air gun copper grease when putting it back together! ed. or just a tube. didn't spot that

fronts are more involved as you need to remove and then dismantle the struts. no biggie, though

have you got the service book? it's all in there, but is dotted about, so need to be careful/thorough is it NWP who sell service kits, with all OE parts? 'recommended' oil is 5/40

can either use the OE 195/45/16 or the 182's 205/45/16. lots about tyres on here - they came on 195/45/16 Contisports originally, which are still avail for about 60/70ea. few other options in 195/45/16 for similar money. not sure, but think the Toyos may be a bit cheaper, and are a popular tyre...

wouldn't hurt they may knock out fairly easily if you haven't already tried it

hammer/suitable drift (screwdriver?). they can take some shifting, had the same bother before i think it's because the caliper is alloy and will have reacted with the steel/whatever-it-is of the ferrule on the end of the outer cable ed. need to be careful not to damage the caliper, as...

the cable guide? you may need to whack it out - probably corroded in there

Bosal part nr 258786 for the bolts

only the gearbox, really. don't mind the seating posn or the wheel

not sure about aftermarket boxes (CES) but easy enough to tell if it's straight-through guessing it's going to be fairly noisy, but only one way to find out! ed. check that the CES box will hook straight up to the Magnex centre pipe before buying

the OE exhaust is straight-through and isn't restrictive (most modern OE systems aren't) - just doesn't last as long as it could

tbh, what you've described sounds normal, but you could try bleeding, check discs/pads, and service calipers (check pistons, sliders, and h/brake arm are free/clean/lubricated, where relevant)

mine's pretty similar if you press on in it; i think it's as intended could try bleeding the rears, to be sure they're passing fluid, but they don't do much in comparison with the fronts

did find a stand-alone English copy of this, but can't just now - so this is a forum link, but might be interesting (re. expense of PE2s)...

to answer your original question, track rubber won't last anywhere near as well as a road tyre. Contisports have a tread wear rating of 280, whereas most track tyres have a rating of 60. you can make a mess of road tyres by overdriving them but, all things being equal, they'll last far, far...

Apec kit 311 (i think), if you can find a factor who keep Apec brake kits (they're used by a lot of motorfactors)

there's loads you can do if you can justify it all in the old time/money/effort balance are you competing in it? fairly extreme, but you see cars that people have taken a hole saw to (at the back end); and wiring looms - they weigh alot and you can save by having a custom loom...

might have missed it, but what have you got in the front calipers? there's no point fitting uprated-anything in the rears if you've std at the front i've only tried Reds in the front and didn't run them for long, as they were a bit of a liability from cold on the road

if it's snapped cleanly, you might be able to pull it out with finger tips - the cable end as it's hooked up to the brake caliper behind either rear wheel. just trying to help you make a quick diagnosis:) it wouldn't take a garage long to fit cables, wouldn't have thought. they're probably not...

with a pair of pliers, pull the end of the cable at the handbrake arm - sounds like a snapped cable. it's probably best to renew both sides, as the other will also be stretched if it's original, and it can be a pain trying to balance new&old cables. haven't had to do this yet, but pattern cables...

if you've got the service book, it's all listed in there; although it's not laid out very clearly the interval should either be 72k or 84k (12k intervals) - standard service + whatever's listed in the service book. it's a good idea to do the gear oil as well, which isn't listed

i've not seen the other thread, but have this atm. it's 'not very good' just dull, really. only a couple of hours into it and there've been lots of cut scenes, which disrupt what little flow there is not my cuppa, so far

i think the 2nd lambda thing just relates to the engine management light - it may or may not come on (mine didn't and the car the decat went onto afterwards didn't illuminate its warning lamp either) - just a luck-of-the-draw thing; if it does, remove the 2nd lambda and fit a blanking bolt/plug

noise! and a little extra go, which didn't justify the noise for me (cat went back on)

may help: http://www.msauk.org/site/cms/localGroupFinder.asp?category=469 http://www.hillclimbandsprint.co.uk/ http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/1845841034/?tag=cliospnet01-21

it's not going to be competitive, but that's not the point for everyone if you strip the interior, it'll be in one of the mod prod classes (which'll make it even less competitive) i'll have a look for a link in a moment, but on the MSA site, there's a tool that brings up local motor clubs...

the top of the column cover just pulls off, so could be worth driving around without it, if that aids search

on mine, i've noticed that the little plastic plate behind the rheostat that dims/brightens the int. lights vibrates - need to take it off and put some tape under it at some point