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i also butchered an open ended spanner, trying to make something that might work (failed) one of those lambda socket things sounds handy, if it'll fit

isn't any sump guard worth having just going to increase the likelihood of impacts? (i.e. they're usually fairly substantial). sounds like you want a diy skid plate effort, but it won't protect the sump!

seriously awkward because of access; i ended up using a very long screwdriver and knocking the nut round with that and a hammer, from above. need to be careful/whatever you do as the nuts are alloy and easily threaded be interested to know if there's an easier way, or some magic tool

same photo on KTEC's/:)

looking at KAM's link above, you've got the two smaller bushes either side of the photo - the taller 'half' goes between gearbox and alloy arm, and the shorter one goes between the alloy arm and the bolt. otherwise it'll vibrate the supplied washers go either side of these make sure the...

the grilles unscrew but the baskets aren't quite square under the resultant holes. easiest/safest to take the top of the dash off, which is an easy job (been described before on here)

it's just a guess incase anyone has it t'other way round. there's a collar on one of the poly halves at the g/box end & i think that should be at the bottom, with the alloy sitting ontop - leaves a longer length of poly between alloy&box, which the alloy won't move up as it compresses and...

mine was (and is) fine as soon as it was fitted. someone on here recently asked which way up the gearbox end of the mount should go - possible that some have it on the wrong way up (?), which i can see promoting vibration

haven't used either but can't see RS2s being anywhere near R888s, mainly due to softness. R888/similar aren't a sensible road tyre..

not used it but there's a guide here: http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=258911&highlight=gearbox&& doesn't sound too bad if you don't mind getting stuck in

got a vague recollection of 3deg - wasn't it carried on to the 182s as well? it's not adjustable with the std suspension - only the toe (which should be 0deg/parallel according to the workshop manual)

it's not first scheduled until 144k, if you're just running through a list of service bits to renew ed. timing, again

dream/Miura realistic/Caterham. get round to it eventually

just reading this in the mag and it says there's a vid of the 'shoot-out' on their site, but can't find it - has anyone else? skimmed the thread and couldn't see it mentioned

we could really do with a sticky in the suspension section that describes all of the different springs/driveshafts, etc - be dead handy

Renault part 8200641648; about £2 ed. timing errors a-go-go! they're expensive here, anyway

oink, chances are one of those will fit - use whichever's the best fit over the bolt

the washer Renault supply is a dowty seal (the one on the right), but you could use either of the copper ones on the left, providing the internal diameter goes over the sump bolt. the internal dia of that dowty seal may not be big enough

started off with good intentions, but they didn't last all that long. probably about every 3mths at the moment. might give it a 'proper' polish with the machine this summer, which i hate doing even more. genuinely don't understand how people can do it all in a day

what sort of noise is it? be tempted to change oil and/or live with it if it's gear chatter/whine

hammering the bolt head with a drift might help break the seal as well if it is 19mm, 3/4 AF might fit, but shouldn't need to really

it's not imperial. is it 19mm? or thereabouts just thump the ratchet with a heavy mallet. can't be that seized - it's only a few years old! NS - down, OS - up (just in case:D) wire brush threads and coppergrease when they go back in

i think there's a picture from the workshop manual on here somewhere, but there's the engine mount above the cambelt, the upper gearbox mount (under battery), dogbone (underneath car at back of gearbox), and this little block that's fitted at the front of the gearbox

there are four mounts - have a search, as countless people have had to do them by now i'd go for the poly dogbone and pattern/OE for the other three - GSF/ECP etc. it's only the little block at the front of the gearbox that's Renault only (unless a pattern one's now available?) probably...

no expert, but i'd check the OSF caliper; also, bleed the brakes by pedal pumping, see if you're getting similar flow left-to-right (might suggest mc prob if not? my only experience of mc failure has been of the catastrophic 'wtf, no brakes' variety). assume you're not losing any fluid?

you only really need them for building engines and stuff like hub nuts and flywheel bolts (imo) if you buy one, make sure it covers the hub nut/flywheel torques

probably as well just to renew it (they're only about £20) on the Clio2's, the bolt that they fit over is secured from underneath with a nut that can work loose, so may as well loctite that on whilst it's all apart

there's a joint between them - is that where it's leaking? 182 cat's not difficult to remove, so could treat it to new gaskets either end and look at welding the damage (if poss - need pics)

my guess is leg - strut, tca - bottom arm. it needs some new bits, anyway!

i think the lambdas come with little sealing washers, although they might be captive - worth taking it out and cleaning/refitting with copper grease? ed. sorry - it's not actually leaking from the lambda? is it leaking from a joint, or corrosion?