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Used to have 40D + grip, 10-22, 17-55 f2.8, 30mm f1.4, 50mm f1.4, 135mm f2. sold all that and got a 5D mk2, 24-70 f2.8, M42 yashica 50mm f1.4 &soligor 135mm f2.8. got a manfrotto pro55B tripod with 410 junior gearedhead 430ex flash and 2 lead acid powered portable 250W studio lights...

consider the sony A200 over the entry level nikons

whats with the watermarks lol I'd watch out for anything hitting that pole

you'll want flashes not strobes btw lol

nope nothing at all. will expect to see dual card slots on canons in the future I bet after nikon doing it with this. makes sense though if the entry level cameras are SD cards

stolen from another site lol Light moves through space, vibrating as waves in many different directions. Light which is polarized, however, only vibrates in one plane. A polarizing filter or “polarizer” is a lens filter which polarizes light along one plane. This can cut non-metallic...

kenko hoya same factory, the thin ones just don't vignette on ultrawide angles. used both and see no difference. green label hoya are the cheaper ones and are best avioded as they are only single coated, the blue are multicoated. The HMC are multicoated but have less effect on light...

you'll not notcie any difference in quality with the standard hoya CPL over the pro version. a kenko is the same glass but cheaper

hair on your mirror of the focus screen if you don't see it on the lens

used to be good value but not with prices shooting up.

its pish anyway, I'd waste my money on it

hitech do various square filters up to a 10stop (3) one.

use an ND filter to reduce the shutter speed then you'll not have to use such small apertures which will make the image quite soft

£18 for the filter, £4 for the holder and about £3 for the lens adaptor

well if you want to do gay rig shots without having to go above f11 where diffraction and softness sets with around shutter speeds of 0/5 to 2s for good background blur then yes they are what dreams are made of

you can blow £70 on a B+W 110 10 stop screw in filter or you can get a hitech 3 (10 stop) ND 85mm square filter that fits into a cokin P or kood P filter system. http://www.formatt.co.uk/stills-filters/filters/standard-n-d/high-density-neutral-standard-filters.aspx

welcome to my finger :P

he is still publishing it without permission, thats breach of copyright

yes it is lol

not worth the extra cash which is a significant amount these days. 40D is better at higher ISO's because it does not use as much NR, the 50D's sensor out resolves most cheap end lenses. £570 Vs £815 for the body only.

neither, 40D makes much more sense

if you don't want to spend much money consider the sony A200

sigma lens in nikon mount is driven by the internal focus screw on the nikon body. in canon mount it uses a standard micromotor not HSM

nikon is the better optic, it has VR and AFS focus motor wither it is actually worth more is down to the person buying it lol.

when a lens is focused at the hyperfocal distance, the scene is in "sharp" focus from 1/2 the focused distance distance to infinity. That certainly doesn't fit the 1/3 in front, 2/3 in back rule of thumb, does it! This widely used rule of thumb is only good when the lens is focused at about...

only for wide angles, gets to 50/50 once you go longer. but I agree with what you are saying

nope, waste of time to get some sort of effect thats not actually noticable lol

TBH never even knew who posted it at first, I read the posts not who posts them but still listing your memory cards lol but at least you won't reply to this post if you are bored

I could not be arsed writting out all the stuff I have and I don't like rig shots, I also don't like street photography or landscapes either but not sure what that has to do with it

nope I do research into hepatitis C virus