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sigma 30mm f1.4

you should go out when there is still a little bit of light left in the sky. your pictures will not have that orange sky (unless you like it lol)

the Quay

sharpness decreases as ISO increases

widest rectiliner lens is the sigma 12-24mm with a FOV of 122 degrees, a fisheye can be 180 degrees

if it was bright with white walls etc then you could have used manual and bounced the flash (if you had one) if not then you can only bump up the ISO and use the onboard flash to freeze the action

looks like they are all OOF or shutter speed not fast enough to capture the action. try and isolate the subject more and not get anyone else in the background as it detracts from the subject. also watch for the way the sun is, you really want the shadow behind the subject

you'll have to focus then turn the filter to suit

go inside a building that is falling apart - sounds really safe lol

I'd go for a canon 40D over the D90 just in terms of spec.

what are you currently using?

srp of the 24-105 is £1330 and the 17-55 is £1140

if you are wanting a standard zoom then somthing starting around 17mm is best. The new canon lenses are stupidly expensive, the 15-85 has an SRP of £800 so even knocking a couple of hundred off for a street price it ain't cheap. there are plenty of choices and it comes down to how much...

it was when the 40D first came out and is a high ISO shot with no NR applied

1400 odd views lol

5D2 will have better IQ 18mp on an APS-C sensor is mad. AF is not anyfaster than teh 50D apparently. remote flash its unlikely you'll actually use it. no way I'd get a crop sensor over my 5D2 now

could get around £150-165 for the eos 1n, 28-135 was the standard kit zoom for the old EOS film cameras and like said about still used today and actually not a bad lens

I only sell lenses when I want a new one. its a good time to sell second hand if you are not goign to replace since second hand prices are soo high.

lomo cameras have a cheap camera body which leaks light (hence the dark circle around the frame) and a plastic lens (hence the soft unsharp images). not so much a style than a badly made camera lol

how is the vignetting and sharpness particularly at the 150mm end?

http://www.adorama.com/catalog.tpl?op=detailsdisc&sku=TM1750VEOS interesting page - used to own the tamron and it was a fine lens, adding VC will make it an even finer one too if that page is to be belived

cause the 18-200 lenses are utter shite lol

one of the sony twin lens kits would be good http://www.camerapricebuster.co.uk/cat22.html I'd not bother with any of the entry level nikons TBH

the important bit from both those would be the processing as both heavyly use it to get their images.

not all HDR is crap just so long as you don't call them photographs lol or you can go OTT

nice thing about film is its the lens that counts not the body. there are plenty of M42 lenses on ebay (I use two on my 5D2) so any older pentax body would be good plus you could probably use them on your digital body if you have an adaptor

nah my timing is not so good so I'd f**k it up. used flashes before though with a light tent, not as good as yours but maybe I should have used your strobes rather than radio triggered flash units :(

never tried using a strobe with a camera. how do you sync the frequency of the strobe to the shutter opening or are these long exposures using a strobe to light it all around?

canon version got the same sort of problems TBH lol

nice lens, 82mm thread is a pain, vignettes like a b**ch at 24mm wide open, and mine miss focuses so sending it to sigma as soon as. Seems its pretty common with this new HSM model but its easily fixed so not worries.