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go 2 autotrader.co.uk and use the insurance search engine under the motoring tab. im 21, 1 yr NCD and im paying £760 fully comp on my N reg valver with Egg Insurance.
my thought exactly!!!
i worked p/t from the age of 13, all the way thru secondary skool. bought my 1st car, a mark 1 fiesta XR2 replica(!!) about 4 mths b4 i was 17, passed my test exactly a month after my 17th (paid for lessons/test etc myself) then got a nova :o SR which i put a GSi engine...
dunno--my m8 has a 2.0 zetec from a focus in his m reg fiesta si, and his insurer simply based the premium on a focus 2.0. in all honesty i dont think they have a clue--he also has an Emerald ECU (fully user re-mappable), he told them his original ford ECU was knacked, and that it was cheaper to...
anybody got any quotes on conversions? planning on insuring my 1.4RT with megane 2.0F7R fitted with AF. does any1 know how they base the conversion premium i.e. is it on the insurance group of the vehicle the engine came out of??
172mgw---will tesco provide cover on a conversion?
drill a hole in the pistons ;)!!
it all depends how much boost and therefore power u want (also how much cash u have!!)
thicker head gasket--low boost--moderate power gains--cheap..ish
skimmed pistons--bit more boost--bit more power--bit more money
forged pistons+internal work--high...
it all depends wot u mean by heavy! mine does "a bit" on idle (stops once u pick the revs up), and thats with new rings and honing.
u could do a compression test if ur worried...
ok, well if there is a problem with NTC1 (air temp sensor), than that wont be helping fuelling matters....
as far as the MAP sensor goes, its not necessarily always a problem.
wot was she running like b4 u swapped the cams?
did he say there was false readings on the MAP sensor? if so this will be doen to the longer duration of the inlet cam.
high hydrocarbon readings at idle r due to exhaust gas dilution because of the increased overlap--vacuum in plenum when butterfly is close (i.e. @idle) causes low speed...
agree with A/R ratio- but dont really think there is much need in goin 2 the extremes of water injection for 10Psi even with standard CR! even with higher levels of boost, IMO, its better to have a very efficient intercooler/chargecooler, than resort to water injection.....
if uve got lightened conrods/crank/pistons/valve gear, the engine will rev easier/higher.
similarly if u DECREASE stroke but increase bore (to re-gain displacement), it will rev higher. hence short throw cranks....
a 1.8 can rev higher because it has less stroke, therefore piston speed is lower. this means there is less momentum on moving parts, so they can rev faster/higher.
same "theory" as lightening internals
look at http://www.s-tag.comwww.s-tag.com
they do 5th injector driver (RT1) that uses a closed loop lambda sensor which keeps A/F ratio to whatever u pre-set it to. includes funky dash mounted lambda meter aswell
would be alot simpler and still capable of good power figures.
i would personally try and use EFI, but simplicity is a good way forward....
at the end of the day it all depends wot u want from the engine. high boost-high tech-high performance-high cost, or good(ish!) performance from a...