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As you might have seen me saying in other threads I have been trying to lower the torsion bar on my Clio today. I was following THIS guide to do it. I started on the torsion bar that looked worst of the two and it started coming out fine but now it's stuck here: It won't come out any further...

I'll have a look to see if I can manage around the jacking point but from memory I don't think I can. Anyone know about the rear axle? Need to fin dout asap as I'm about to start.

TBH there really isn't room to jack the car up with a trolley jack on the jacking point, then get the axle stands in there. I've out the axle stand on the actual axle before with no problems but just wanted to check that it would't be an issue as I'm taking the torsion bar out etc.

and by the axle I mean the big thick round bit that goes from one wheel to the other across the back of the car.

It's awkward putting the axle stands there though because then I have nowhere to jack the car up?

Thanks, I couldn't see how it would have an effect but having seen someone mention it before I thought I had best check. Final questions, am I OK just to put the axle stands on the rear axle when lowering it? The only reason I ask is that I don't know how everything is linked up exactly so...

Thanks mate. So does it not matter about the positioning of the marks on the bar relactive to where it slots in?

^^^^

I'm 99% sure yours is SPi

btw - do you mean the 1.8 16v from a valver, or the 1.8 8v from the RSi?

You can actually use the gearbox and driveshafts from the 1.4 - but I don't think they would last all that long. Your also be best off getting a 16v fuel pump and you can use the same engine mounts, though the 1.4 top mount isn't as good as the 16v one. The 1.4 exhaust can also be used but you...

I'm going to be lowering my Mk1 Ph2 1.4 RT tomorrow and just want to check a few things. When doing the torsion bar does it matter about the position of the marks on the torsion bar with realtion to the bit it slots into when putting it back in? Does it matter how far you put it back in or...

The best thing to do is just get some quotes on the internet, as there are so many factors that come into it. TBH as a 17 year old it will not be cheap on any car at all. Mine is under my mums name at the moment because as a 17 year old I was being quoted about £1800 which I simply could not...

very true!! The energy lump seems near enough indestructable. As has been said above look out for the rear arches rusting, check when the timing belt was done and also find out when, if at all the wheel bearings were done, as they often go around the 60 to 70k miles.

I would imagine the valver shafts would be OK but best checking that with others. If you ask over on williamsclio.co.uk you might be able to get more help as there are loads on there who have done the conversion. Is it the car I was PM'ing you about you are thinking of putting the engine in BTW?

as has been said it's pretty much the same engine but the williams has a longer stroke iirc, both engines are identical from the outside. IIRC you can just use a valver head with the williams bottom end.

all the 1.4's have 5 gears. That car in the picture has an RT bumper on it, 16v bonnet and I can't tell if it's got RT or 16v wings on it from that picture - they look like standard RT wings. I think the 75BHP is for the cars with power steering as the power steering uses about 5bhp so the...

Has anyone got the photoshops of a Clio V6 done when the new clio was released? I remember someone did one from the back with the wide arches and it looked amazing.

Like THIS here

breaker bar is a big bar which you can attach sockets to basically. It doesn't have any sort of ratchet on it and can be used to get tight nuts off as they are usually quite long and give you a lot of leverage.

have you tried a few garages mate? I don't really know what it should be, but I reckon that still seems higher than you would need to pay.

yeah, TBH I don't know if the garages near me would do it for free as there are two about 30 seconds drive from my house but both can be total pricks from my experience. I would just rather have the impact wrench as I'm sure it would come in usefull in the future as well.

Yeah, I suppose I could do that as well mate but I'm thinking now that I might just get a 12v impact wrench like Fred suggested as they would do the job. Does anyonehave any idea where else I could try to get a cheap one as the one for £8.33 at argos is sold out in all the stores near me?

good stuff mate - thanks for your help.

Does it matter about holding the centre part in place when tightening it up or can you just use a normal wrench and torque it to the correct settings? I saw THIS which is really cheap (my main concern, lol) but do you think the chrome vanvadium sockets would be any use as I would have thought...

is THIS the sort of thing you use? Don't know if this would even be worth going for as it would no doubt break after little use.

TBH I don't know about the first thing but £190 to fit springs and lower the torsion bar seems very expensive mate. I'm about to do mine next week myself and I don't think it should be all that difficult. You might even find someone off the forum who will do it at a knock down price for you...

ahh, so it's not necessarily the case that you have to hold it. Will you do any damage if you turn the nut but the piston is also turning? I'll try and find a 21mm offset spanner on the net somewhere and it should save some of the hassle. Thanks fred.

Going to finally be lowering my Mk1 1.4RT next week. I think I pretty much know what I'm doing but the only thing I'm not sure of is the best way of undoing the strut top nut. I have seen a few people mentioning using a 21mm deep socket - but I thought you had to hold the piston in the strut...

It's defintely been done before, but I would think you would be as well going with a williams conversion TBH. You can get good power out of a williams if they are tuned and the engine drops straight into a valver IIRC.