Search results

Do you have a link fella [emoji2]

Loving that there's another one before the years out . I missed the last one . Vote for both as I'm easy with either. Thanks @TimR26

You also mention a jammed flap . I don't like those [emoji15] , but see if it operates once you remove the filter and check its operation

Take the pollen filter out and see if that makes a difference . If yes - replace the filter [emoji1303]

[emoji38] [emoji23]

You can see in the pic that it uses a bracket and a strap , which I might add are rocking horse s**t nowadays . You need one of those

Yes the Monday just gone . Try and get down when you can

P201 40 pin is where your looking at ? Says pin 14 is starter output . A little vaige , but clearly it's an earth [emoji290]. The power from the ignition switch travels from there all the way to the starter relay me thinks . So somehow either the multi timer unit switches that Earth...

Yes ast do some - orange looking. Camber / castor adjustment is achievable Compbrake I think do a similar mount , not sure it achieves the same results

Saw you a couple of time approx 6.30am. Car does look very nice , clean also .

Doh [emoji23] , maybe the gauge is an issue then .

Took mine out earlier for a hoon , temps ok [emoji1303]

Then just measure its resistance change if it's all fitted up in the block now . See how you get on [emoji1303]

Where is the oil temp sensor going @dan2707 ? Can't do no harm in earthing it while your testing it . Why don't you measure the resistance while your dropping it into the water to see if it changes with heat

Yeah similar job to throttle cable. As you cable has snapped you won't have anything to attach to now . So when I did mine used a thin electrical wire to and attached it to the new cable . Firstly I fed the wire through the bulkhead from the inside out and then attached it to the cable ready...

I did mine 2 years ago so should be ok for a while yet . Bad luck your cable went where it did . I'd have waited till rush hour stopped and nursed it home "that's me" can't leave the car unattended on the side of the road , it would be stripped [emoji23] Painful the waiting to be taken home on...

I'm sure the starter motor has a fuse by the battery itself . A small amount of fuses me thinks under a cover . Check those fuses to see if any are blown

Look in the GSF and ECP discount thread for a current code . I got a battery for £26 delivered for the Megan [emoji1303]

First check that the battery has no current draining from it . Confirm that . I had the same issues with my BMW and Clio . New battery on both cars cured both cars issues

Those Bodies are so sexy Garry

Two options . Subframe off or engine out . Can't see it coming out in situ with either still in . Someone will be along soon with the "I've done one and it was a c*nt of a job. Lol [emoji23]

You can see pretty much see where you are limited to where the catches will finally sit , due to limited space unless you use brackets off the original two bolts the hold down the slam panel . Note the slam panel will need removing for this to be carried out. Ph2 has a similar if not identical...

I fancy some of these @dann2707 , where from and how much please sir . And this build has been awesome , I was aware of the ecu upsets you have been having , but so glad it's all sorted ready Saturday. Deffo go for a drive m8 , see how it all is ready for mapping [emoji4] I am going to be...

Decided to go down the garage and bring back from the dead the motor that's been sitting for 34 months . Compression tests done . All ok . Then the start up , and what can I say , I'm amazed it started up first time on the button . Well pleased . I've checked the shell and it seems...

No diagram as it should only be two thick wires the same colour as on the passenger switch . 2 thick wires to motor Info of what the wires do

It's way earlier to swap the pins over on the motor . Then you'll not be messing with the wires on the interior side . If lazy mode has set in , I'd say swap pin 2 and 6 over . Confirm colours where they go through the door . Thickest wires as they carry the most current .

What switches are you operating when it works backwards up and down ? Switch on drivers door for passenger window ? Or the passengers left door switch ?

Have a little look in here Passenger window only goes down, tried almost everything https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=191&share_tid=809082&url=http://www.cliosport.net/index.php?threads/Passenger-window-only-goes-down%2C-tried-almost-everything.809082/&share_type=t

You need to have 12v at both wires at the motor when switches are at rest position . If you don't , then start tracing it back 111 is passengers window motor 113 switch for passenger on right door 114 Passengers side window switch on left door