Search results

Re: Clio TT (172 cup) VW temp sensors have 2 outputs (4pins). The two gold pins provide a signal for the ECU and the other 2 provide a signal for the dash.

other methods, Get a blunt chisel and give the spanner hex (on the sensor) a really good tap from a couple of sides. If all else fails, grind away until you can get a socket on it.

sometimes they are really really tough to get out. You need a 22mm spanner. Good luck

If it's done incorrectly without the timing tools, you can loose serious serious power. It's happened on here before.

That's the very first thing I said. They make such a COOL noise. It's nicely powered tbh. Won't quite drift on tarmac in the dry, but probably would do if ben finally plucked the balls to weld the diff (soon i thinks!). Took it out in the wet though and it needs very little persuasion to get...

btw had a go in bens 340 at the weekend :D Good sh1t!

No. 1) Wipe the filter with a rag (touch of white spirit if you like) 2) Try turning with your hand 3) if you really can't shift it, use a fairly sharp screwdriver and a hammer, punch the screwdriver all the way through and turn. You'll be unlucky if it can't be done by hand tbh

Are you working on cars? A/F sizes not really required surely. The deep sockets can be handy, but you can often work around by not fully fitting the socket on the ratchet. My advice would be get this...

I've got one of these: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DRAPER-29362-EXPERT-METRIC-SOCKET-SET-30-PIECE-1-2-/110414886617?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment I've really abused this kit (extension bars on ratchet, impact gun on sockets etc) i've never had any problems at all. You might occasionally notice a bit of...

shame the pics arent bigger. Ph1 R19 16v turbines. Nice. Want.

turd

I chopped the cable, got a 22mm ring spanner around it, then used an extra piece of box section to get more leverage.

Bimota - That's it, never seen that before. Cool stuff

.

In a newsagents today, I've seen a magazine......... (where's this going...) ....with a bike on the front of it. Really odd looking thing, had a front swing arm instead of forks. Anyone know what it is or if it's any good. I'm not a biker, but it looks interesting.

My Girlfriend has been receiving incorrect bills from orange for a while. We have tried to correct this before with orange more than once. One bill re-calculation was sucessfull and we got some money back. They've been charging for a data bundle which she is supposed to have for free, and she...

lovely looking things. Glad someone has finally bought one.

thought it was a PD 150?

dude. Did you get above 3.5k RPM? wheres the redline at

Re: Clio TT (172 cup) what's the downpipe solution? have you got a VAG oem K04 Downpipe to work with?

it's a good setup IMO. No play in the drop links and no room for off-axis bending of the roll bar. The roll bar is linked directly to the wishbone. Those bushes can be replaced with powerflex ones. I have a set spare if you feel the need. PM me if you want em

Two things to add: If you want a gearbox to handle a bit more power that it's built for put in a gearbox oil cooler with a little pump - it can help. The original post asked about clutches. The standard clutch hasnt a chance at that power/torque. After market clutch is essential.

Few things to think about: Isnt the engine and gearbox around the other way? ie gearbox on the O/S. Makes mounting more than tricky You'll need to take the car off the road for around twice the time you think you will. Things like fabricating engine mounts need thought and time rather than cash...

hmmm brave. But I don't think that'll work.

I was quite pleased with mine. But it was probably the decat that was fitted at the same time. Makes cat/decat swaps easy tho

Theres always the camp that will say "too costly for the gains". They do talk sense. But If you forget rational thought for a minute, it sounds a great idea. Where you thinking just pull the head off and drop it on your 1.4? I think you'll be hard pushed to find a head. Better off with a whole...

The only way you can get petrol into oil is past the pistons (past the piston rings). That's not a very good sign. It's natural that a small amount would get into the oil, but not a lot. Are you sure you smelt petrol? Did you blat it from cold? My advice would be to check it regularly, note...

It's not a particularly good looking front end? why that one? wierd.

you need to drop the subframe. My guide on 182 manifold conversion has plenty of pictures on dropping the subframe. Long job. Get a clutch in while your at it.

Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project The stud conversion is really awesome work. Definitely one of your best additions.