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Thanks for the kind words everyone
Phil really really liked that color, I hated it, so it went.
Update in a few ticks. I've basically been without internet for ages and the project has slowed up a bit as i'm back at uni now.
dude wtf?
Having driven neither but been out in an S14 i'd say that the 200 would be the choice bang-for-buck. but the celica is a far more interesting car for me.
what management are you running? As I'm sure your aware, you'll get far better results if you just stump the £300 for a map on RR. It's nearly impossible to get good ignition mapping done on the road.
good luck tho, sounds an awesome project
I disagree with that. The 1.2 N/A engine is not as strong as the TCE, and you said yourself that forged rods and pistons are not an off-the-shelf for the 1.2.
Definitely go for the whole conversion if a 1.2 turbo is what you want.
However, from what I've heard the management system is...
ta :approve:
She should be reet. :D It sit's lower than the standard F7P. Rain catcher has to go though.
as for the inlet manifold, as said it's so much easier to route boost piping if it picks up on that side. The AGU 20v engine code is the only one that picks up from the left afaik, so that...
Everyone loves a picture of a fat turbo. :cool:
Also spent a little bit of the afternoon making a custom turbo actuator bracket using 2 bits of 3mm plate.
It's been sprayed and the paint is drying, here it is before spraying. Before you ask, the original actuator bracket above won't work...
So bit of progress then,
Head porting was finished. Anyone doing this should note that it's much much easier if you keep the tungsten grinding bit oiled at all times. Then it doesen't clog.
Matches the manifold well now.
Spent ages lapping in the valves with coarse and fine grinding paste...
To add to that, if you ever get the chance to drive a lambo or something on a driving experience day, you'll find the brakes on proper sports cars are far less servo'd
I'd say you'd be mad to remove them. That's interesting what dan says about pressure releif valve springs. I assume you could pop a little shim under it also.
^^ as does CV grease splilling out of the CV boot.
The job would be:
Slacken Hub nut (lots of leverage)
Jack and support and wheel off
Steering track rod detatch
Ball joint remove from hub
Unbolt hub from shock and remove hub
Sort driveshaft and re-assemble.