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No worries. You would probably be able to drill a decent sized hole and slip some washers througg and line them up with the hole, bit fiddly but done similar before.

Am sure it can be done with clip?

Sorry, it's bolted direct on the box so will let oil out if it's split.

Inner on the passengers side is a wet boot on the box.

i'd be tempted to get rid of them and use some ally rivnuts, as long as they aren't pulled right down when fitting they should be fine. if you want i can sort them out for you and get a decent sized penny washer inside the spoiler as well.

they will eventually fail as the rubber deteriorates and wears away, mostly caused wind over the spoiler, i'd say downforce but that sounds too technical for this time of the morning!! bit of silicone as well or some good quality trim adhesive.

i wouldn't trust the well nuts to hold it.

you've obviously never looked at your throttle body, throttle body plug, pedal plug etc etc...

OUCH!!!!

Make sure you use plenty of sealant on the end cover on the box.

Fixed that for you.

chuck new cams in, no new bits needed, set to secret cam timing or in my case super secret cam timing and get it mapped, pretty much as simple as that. i've done a few ?

plenty of people do, plenty don't even have belts changed and are fine. i've seen them screw up within literally 50 miles of having belts done professionally. the wife's 172 has done 100,000 miles since i changed it's belt and is still fine so it's your choice on what you change. it reads as you...

aircon cooling fan fits on a no aircon rad but non aircon cooling fan clips on so won't fit on an aircon rad. (if that makes sense?)

Need 12v at the exciter wire when you hit the button. Checked battery is ok and check you've not missed any of the battery connections. Also check the exciter wire is actually on the starter as well.

Standard rad.

Got to admit I've no idea on what the standard system flows like? Can't see it being that restrictive but a good flowing exhaust does seem to make a noticeable difference though.

ktec and quiet just don't go together!!

when you look at the cost of a vag box and how cheap diffs etc are for them it's not that costly in the scheme of things. you can even use the o2j and stick with cable clutch and fwir slightly better ratios for boost. we looked at 6 speed reno box ratios for my lads twingo but ended up going...

ultrasonic cleaner works well if they aren't peeling and it's the lazy way of doing it as well ?

if you start with a decent engine, do a proper job on a conversion including mapping and the correct size turbo for the power that's suitable then no reason whatsoever why a boosted conversion would be unreliable etc.

reo speedwagon.

most modern stuff will throw a wobbler when battery is low, especially on push button start etc. all it takes is one ecu to see low voltage and chaos ensues!! plug it into clip and fiver says you've got half a dozen codes just from trying to start it.

i'd do the roof with solvent or dry ice or even just leave it on. seen a fair few where the roof is covered in bumps from scraping it off. doesn't take much to start to distort a roof panel. will try and get a pic of one to show how bad it can look.

And if you're going boost then don't bother with the 197 cams, they'll have to come back out. Could do group n timing? At least that way if you go boosted all you'll have to do is set timing back to stanfard.

Some beadwork from what I remember but don't know who did it?

197 cams?

no real need for keyed pulley but if you don't mind paying for one then worth chucking on.

erm... abs ring maybe ?

sunny? have you looked out of the window today ?