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not checked but no reason why it would be.

keep the standard springs if you want.

last time i sold any was just before christmas, £110 each.

standard seats will cut for oversized valves.

rear ride height.

no cam sensor so group n timing as well, should be able to get a genuine 150bhp from it if it's a geed engine.

yup. presume it's a vibration damper?

chuck a set of iapel oversized pistons in, €420 and supertech f4r valves are 1mm oversized for them, twingo 133 cams should be pretty cheap and that should give you a decent bit of extra power.

circuit use only should buff off easily ?

am guessing you can just pop a walbro in? not got a clue what actual pump it runs but chances are one will fit.

you can't weld it, fwir it's in a sleeve of rubber so would be a nightmare to do. why not get a uj, chop the bottom of the column off and weld it on?

am sure the standard one is bushed? could be wrong.

not definite but would be first port of call.

coolant temp sensor.

ah, not a circlip.

big circlip?

BOOST!!!!!!!!

the magnesium aren't a full magnesium so are heavy ish. i've got a set stashed away. if you hold them by the centre as they would be on the car you can feel how light the rear of the wheel is though.

sounds like something is rattling/catching? hard to say from a video though.

If it's clamped tight and you're getting any gears them it's an adjustment issue. If you just have the selector on the box you can get reverse, the only inhibitor for reverse is on the lever.

you can see it through the wheel arch.

op said would be replacing airbag ecu.

self clearing.

Not chasing figures but it's forged high comp bottom end, oversized supertech valves, supertech springs etc, head worked and 48mm pms bodies. Should comfortably do 230bhp. Put it this way, I'm having a bloody long day today and an even longer weekend!!!!

197s should work well with bodies but not done any yet. i've got a set of schrick to go on my bodied build but going for serious power with that.

thought i'd done one but was few years ago and couldn't remember for sure.

what cams you running?

Most people replace one worn mount out of four with an updated one hence more vibration.

Easy enough, need to drain the box first and then shaft out to change the boot.

Yup, body is a Bosch unit and think the pedal might be as well?