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take the bung out of the bottom of the pump, cut another groove half as deep at a right angle to the original one, lolish the actual plunger up as well to get rid of any sharp edges around the groove.
it will make sense when you see the bits.
i've known a few have the head done but not torqued up properly and they leak from along the front. give it a good clean up, run it and see if you've got any signs of it leaking again. have a quick look at the cam end caps and if you want cam oil seals and see if they look new as well.
i always say you might as well go full rather than just a half cage, half won't really do much to protect you when compared to a full. also full stiffens the car up as well.
open the top of the plug up where it fits in the cluster, it just flips up, then crimp the terminal on the black wire down a bit, that will sort the earth.
without seeing figures i'm guessing they chucked the probe in and started the test? had plenty that take a minute or two for everything to settle down for the test.
clue is in the word custom ?as they say a picture speaks a thousand words...
pipework built up on the car, you have more choice about how it fits/looks etc.
i had someone on facebook telling me they had someone from the ministry who told them a customer can't take a car away that's failed a test, scary as it's all down to the wording and how retarded the person reading it is!!
i've even seen testers who are convinced the customer can't take the car...
no need to heat them, old rings can be split with a chisel easily.
watch out with the j&r rings, i've had a few now that aren't true and when they are on will rub against the sensor as you turn them.