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edde I'm after the guide too. tried PM'ing you but your inbox is full. Could you (or anyone who has it) email me the guide (jrawlins28@gmail.com) Thanks!

Second hand one would work fine. Get one from a scrappy. Not sure re the MOT and middle belt missing.

Similar to ONR I guess. Which if used correctly is completely safe.

This.

What was the outcome?

Most places charge extra for camber on top of standard wheel alignment I've found. So that price doesn't sound too bad

Battery? Get a multimeter on it.

This. Its not bullshit.

I'd get a second hand amp off eBay. I got a 2 channel Phoenix gold one for bargain money. Is brilliant. Jbl also do some excellent amps. You wanna match the rms value of whatever components you buy with the amp output.

Spl dynamics

Might get an advisory that's about it . It's booked for the 15th, but when does the current mot expire?

Or weld a nut on.

Mine did this when the break discs were warped ever so slightly. That wasn't on track though.

What does this black box connector look like? I'm having an electrical problem and wonder if wires are chafed in same place?

I was the one who rung you the other day enquiring about a replacement lol

The post cat sensor. If it's on constantly

Trouble is its a 1.2 8v , not my 182, and has an electronic throttle body, most 8v's were cable!

I think it must be emma. Trouble is a second hand one for it from renparts is 100 quid lol. And I don't 100 percent know it'll fix it.

Battery is fine. Tried with a diff one.

I'll get my multimeter on it

Can't see any botched wires. I took apart the potentiometer, and seems to have cleared some faults. Still getting idle control valve fault though. ​potentiometer makes a weird noise like a hard drive spinning lol. Thing is its intermittent. Most of the time since putting it back together its...

On the idle control valve (I think that's what this bit is called!?) from a D7F 1.2 8v engine, that is on the end of the throttle body housing. As you can see from the photo, the adjustment screw looks like its got glue in it, I guess to stop people turning it. If you look inside you can see...

When the car is idling in neutral, the revs bounce from 1000rpm to 2/2500rpm repeatedly. So it's going "vroom, back down, vroom, back down, vroom, back down" by itself. Touching the accelerator does nothing. Doesn't increase revs or appear to work at all. I've swapped the pedal assemply...

Megane splitters too.

An update. Got a video of that its doing. Swapped the pedal assembly over, and didn't make any difference: Removed the throttle body housing, but it doesn't seem to be like any I can find for the d7f engine on Ebay? They're all metal but this is plastic?

As said. Don't completely remove torx bolt or when it does come free you'll rip the squip out too. Just put it back in loosely, then pull as hard as you can. Use your foot as a brace next to the dashboard on the sill.

There was nothing more annoying than when you were a sniper in BF2, found an absolutely epic place, then just got artillery'd lol.

Anyone help?

Take them off to do it. A million times easier if you put them on a table.

This is his engine (if it helps)