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Cheers buddy. It does look a little better. Will have to get it scrubbed at somepoint to see the final results! Both calipers were rebuilt in april. Sliders are totally free. Pistons seem to be free and I exercised them in and out a few times with no issues. Think I will rebuild them with new...

Little update I mended the cruise control with a new squib which has much improved my life. The connect2 device broke and only plays tweeter tones Bluetooth is broken too Brakes on the front are off balance which I have no idea how to remedy. I tried the 80 ecu set up on the car which was...

I just had a look for an exploded diagram of the whole lot but couldn't find one. Are you after specific part numbers?

Update Thanks for all the replies. I've concluded its 100% brake related. During the week I quickly too the front calipers off. Sliders are totally free. Exercised the piston in and out a few times and didn't have any difficulty doing that. This however has made no difference to the problem...

Lol didn't read the first post properly. YEah bobble off is the best. Used it on all sports to make them look much less worn

Any dash lights showing when this is the problem. I've had the coil pack lead come off before and that was instant death.

I'll second the above. They are the best price all in from my experience. It is easy to do yourself though. Hammerite is fine for the brakes.

Was going to text you and ask how the conversion was going. Looks good matey. I always wondered what the writing was on the clios. My ph1 had "35 GT" written on it though!

Could be a few things. Check the gearbox earth is done up tight. If it stops cranking on it's own that's the immobiliser stopping it. Does the light stay solid on the dash when the fault occurs? Quite common for the relay in the engine fuse box to go (small black or salmon coloured one)

Replace the battery. Have the alternator tested.

I think that's where I was not entirely sure as I'm away from home. Anthracite alloys and a very shiny pipe on the back.

They do with renault ones. Did it on a set yesterday. 18mm socket worked best

I had the PS fluid doing this in my old golf after 20 minutes of fairly easy track use. Not sure why. Haven't had a problem with clios though. Is the reservoir too full? Maybe it's expanding under heat and has nowhere to go.

Yeah I thought right may be working okay and left is busted. I only refurbed the calipers earlier in the year so something must have got crappy. Will get it on the brake bias machine at the garage and see what's happening. Not sure if they check the front bias at the mot. It only passed in...

Forgot to mention, tracking was done when suspension all replaced. Would I be looking at a right caliper sticking of left?

Recently been having a rather annoying problem. When I brake my steering wheel goes right a bit and the car feels unstable. When I take my foot off the brake the steering wheel goes back left again to where it was before. Track rods and all suspension is all new. Haven't hit any curbs Problem...

A LY would be very easy to cat C with a nice labour rate and no discount on anything. The elusive Autolign inspections is the company you refer to.

im not adjusting it matey. Just swapping for an actuator from an 80 turbo I have in the garage. I've noticed my fuel economy is considerably worse

Righto. I'll swap over the actuator and boost sensor when I get the chance. Until then I'm happy with it. Seems to have quite a bit more torque low down and wants to get going quicker. I am a little concerned about running high temps though so will try and change the injectors soon. Will have to...

Don't tempt me. That's good then, if I just swap over the regulator and bar coming out of it (without changing the nuts location) I'll be all sorted. I had noticed the cartridge was the same. Will mine be running less or more boost than it's meant to? I've never done engine mods on a turbo engine

@HMS Derv Destroyer the 80 I bought didn't have the secondary sensor on the airbox. Maybe they dropped it on the ph3. Right chappies. It works. I've put the ecu set up on my car and all is functional. The injectors from the 80 were part number ejbr01801a which doesn't cross ref with the ones...

It's for the headlamp washers I think.

This is exactly the problem I have matey. It's like clattering from the front when going over bumps. I can only think it's top mounts.

Incredibly envious. Proper poster material. I'm sure the sound just tops it right off!!

Saw this earlier in the car park at the village hall. Pretty sweet arch gap!

I knew you'd done that with the refurbished set so did wonder but because of the kangoo problem will have to check when I get this thing. I'll try and code my injectors to the new ECU and see if it works. If it doesn't I'll get a new set or have the 80 ones refurbished. Will check wiring for...

Hmm yes, I'm not a mechanic but know what I'm doing bar the fine details in this particular instance as I've never owned an 80. I'll swap the ECU kit over as its n3 so I'll finally have a working rain sensor! Although I've never tried I assume on clio I can amend the fine settings of the uch if...

What got your goat!! I've checked the part numbers and they look to be different. Turbo part number difference is to do with the factory wastegate setting being different from my research. I'm concerned about coding as I recent had a problem where my 65 injectors wouldn't code to the Kangoo...

I don't think they are mate. Believe they flow 15% better and the turbo suffix is 002 on the 80 instead of 000. Unbelievably my main concern is the map sensor.

Morning chaps I'm just about to buy a scrap worthy dci 80. Wondered what's required from it to make my 65 into the 80 bhp. List so far is ECU kit, Intercooler set up (already fitted to my car) Turbo Injectors I noticed the 80 uses a different map sensor but don't know it this needs to be...