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Very easy. There is a guide if you become a member.
2 bolts where it attaches to the wing under the wheel arch. Torx in the arch and underneath. 10mm bolts on the bottom centre flap bit. Clips on the top grill. Pull off carefully. as the foglight wiring is tight.
The the lights are 3x10mm...
someone else will know better than me I'm afraid.
Do you know anyone local who you 100% trust to give you an honest and reliable opinion. I'd go there as you really couldn't be much further from me on the same piece of land!
Sorry I can't help more
@tonyd106
A vw tech once told me if one injector goes it usually takes out another with it.
I had this problem, replaced the first and then 2 days later the second went. Hence I replaced all of them.
You can take the fuel rail guard off. Run the car. Unplug the injectors 1 by one and see...
Sorry mate didn't see that. I'm with Dan, clutch release bearing is most likely if it's from the gearbox end.
Just check the aux belt as sometimes if it's got a bit wet it could slip and make than noise.
Just thought I'd let you know Alex. The 182 didn't have any clonking noises when it was broken.
Not the pinch bolt on the steering rack is it? Mine was just a touch loose once and I could feel it in the floor and pedals at very low speeds.
Has that got a V6 airbox?!
Could be contamination on the clutch maybe. Does it change when the clutch is in, out or mid travel?
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=55422
Changing all the bulbs is relatively easy. The ignitor just twists off. Has arrows on it for direction to lock and unlock.
Xenon bulbs usually go pink for a day or two before they go and are best replaced in pairs to match the colour
It will be on the block behind the washer bottle I believe. I'm currently tracing all the wires through the 182 dash loom so will have pin numbers shortly.
Which pins did you have to attach in the bay on the ecu plug Alex? if you remember.
Don't happen to know what each of the wires coming out...
This stuff is actually really difficult to apply well and is quite a skill. We got some at work once and could never get the weave quite uniform.
When done properly it looks great though like the photos
cliokongen
I called up the breakers and asked specifically for the ecu to be included so not sure if it's coded. Phil's got that covered. You will also need the plug which powers the EPAS ecu so you can splice some cable onto it :)
Just try and get a column without a barrel.
Power cables you...
I'm sure it was! There are lots of ways completely above board though :) I worked for an insurer for a while so know a little about quoting but mainly about the claim side of stuff
@Korky Sorry pal, forgot to reply. I ran a 5pk830, the 5pk838 was too loose and the 5pk825 way too tight.
@Pauleds Assuming you use decent second hand parts and your original alternator set up (no A/c) you could probably do it with all the little bits as well for £180. You would need a DCI...
Pretty sure it is.
Got them from Adam and paid £99 or something like that.
Expect a little more belt noise from the set up as it's got some tight turns and is so short
I can't see that on my phone pal but I listed the part numbers in the guide I wrote.
if you look in my for sale thread at the moment there's a pic of the brackets on page 2.
Korky
I was yeah. If you're wondering belt size it's a tough one and took me several different sizes. When I get home today I can let you know which one it is :)
On mine and I believe Alex's the radiator and condenser are all in 1 piece and you can't separate them. Meaning there are no proper fixing points for the intercooler. Also needs a new coolant pipe to fit the other rad pack. Not sure if the newer condenser has a different a/c pipe as mine is...