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I've had issues with this before where the signal wire has come loose. Usually, a quick wiggle sorts it. I had a friend have a quick look on his ramps last time it happened, it is looking like he's made an attempt to crimp it on to avoid it coming loose again, but no amount of wiggling this...

I got around 18 60 second runs out of my last set of R888 SGs :P

I'm looking to go pick up some allen head bolts for moving the balljoint, can anyone tell me what size/grade I need so I can grab them before I start?

I don't understand how you can fit them incorrectly?

That looks mighty impressive! Are you doing one hit and calling it a day or do you have plans for ongoing supply?

I had 205/45/16 and did autotests with such - no rubbing. I guess it's down to your offset. How have you increased track without spacers? Did you completely redrill the wishbones?

Well I already had cup wishbones and had no rubbing issues with either my previous 16s or current 15s (195/50/15). I guess it'll be a case of try it and see - my autotest tyres (195/50/15 R888 SGs) will be the real test, I suspect. Worst case scenario, I'll just ditch the arch liners for now.

Is it just a light rub or is there actual obstruction? I'm guessing it's just on full lock? I'm not too low at the moment - just sportlines.

You just buy Koni rear shocks for a 172, I suspect. Given that they are all the same fitment and they are adjustable, they'll be spot on.

How serious are the clearance issues and how much caster did you gain by doing it, Chip? I'd obviously prefer to do it at the top mounts, but £200 on a set of AST mounts doesn't seem like particularly good value at this moment in time. I plan on a set of Sportline 1s in the not so distant...

It feels horrible because the toe is massively out after adding camber. For the road I'd go for -1.5° - but that depends on on the rest of your setup, tyres and ultimately how much uneven tyre wear you're prepared to put up with. That said, I'm not convinced you have reached -5° camber with...

Why does suspension matter when changing wheels? My tyres have the same rolling radius as my 16s did - the arch gap remains the same.

The car has been refreshed over the last year. New shocks, bushes, ball joints, inner and outer trackrods, top mounts etc. etc. I have been planning on trying Chip's little caster trick, I'll give that a go and see how it fairs.

I haven't, no. I did wonder if the Eibach Pro's could be responsible, but the rake isn't hugely different to OEM, I wouldn't have thought?

I had tuition on a Silverstone GP TD and I hated it - the instructor spent most of the time grabbing the wheel rather than telling me where I was going wrong with my lines. The car won't be built overnight if I do it - I plan to start with suspension and a diff (although the latter more for...

It sounds good in principle, but it's a little too restrictive for me. No geo adjustment that wasn't there standard kills any chance of using a Clio IMO. Thanks, that really does seem like good value motorsport, especially when you think a sprint would probably cost you at least half that for...

I have a 182 FF - second time around, I think I'd probably chose a 172 Cup, but that's mostly down to suspension choices, weight, lack of ABS (I want a bias valve for autotests!) etc. etc. For an ever day car, however, a 182FF every time.

I was just looking back on an old thread where I mentioned my original geo readout when I got the car showed 3 degrees and 2.5degrees caster. A more recent one showed 2 degrees and around 2.3 degrees - I originally thought this was down to non-cup wishbones being fitted at some point, but that...

Tyres are a hell of a lot cheaper in 15" (195/50/15) if you're happy to lose a bit of tyre width.

So the entry fee is only £300? That seems like incredibly good value! It's something I desperately want to do in the next couple of years. There is an increasing number of local blokes doing 750MC Locosts which also seems pretty cheap, but they just don't quite appeal to me - I don't fancy...

Any chance you could break that down for me?

Just because you can manage doesn't mean that it's a good idea or safe. I just don't see any reason not to. They are helpful when the temperatures drop, not just when it snows and assuming you can find suitable winters for a similar price to your usual summer tyres, they aren't actually costing...

I've spent the last few days reading this thread on and off - such an impressive build! What is the cost of a race weekend?

I'm not sure what there is to argue - as already stated, the values are all spot on regardless of whether they are red or green.

Taking another look at it, the symptoms getting worse after alignment kind of makes sense. You had more toe out on the right before, so the result of the toe is the tendency to steer right whether the car overall is pulling left or not. So it was almost compensating for the car pulling left...

They say online shops are killing their business but I suspect if they pushed their services rather than sales, they'd probably make more money. There doesn't seem to be a whole lot of money in tyres.

Slacken bottom bolts, remove top, fit new, get someone to push on the top of the wheel with a moderate amount of pressure. As you turn the bolt you'll notice the top of the wheel move in and out - if you want max camber, simply stop when the top of the wheel is pushed in the most and tighten...

It should say "Clio/Lutecia: 1998- (Clio II - XBXX) : F4R Motor : Phase III (Sport version)" But the writing at the top is irrelevant - the settings are fine :)

It's irrelevant seeing as the only thing adjustable is the toe. That toe would be acceptable on any car and certainly isn't the cause of his issues.

Why? All the target values are going to change is whether values are displayed in red or green, surely? AFAIK, all the values on that sheet look pretty much spot on for a MK2 Clio. OP: Another silly question, but are you sure it was setup with the steering wheel straight? It can be easy to...