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There should be a distinct "clunk" from the front of the engine bay as you engage the AC. That is the clutch on the aircon pulley engaging - if this engages, then there is sufficient pressure in the system, and it should in theory be blowing cold. If it's not engaging, it's either too cold...

I assume your car is in fact a Cup? If so, It's the rod that doesn't get fitted AFAIK. Go back in there and ask him to get VOSA on the phone, or speak to them first. If the prop valve isn't actually used on the 172, it's irrelevant what he thinks is missing. Edit: I take it you've shown...

That is cheap!

I've just noticed the bump steer kit. Seems cheap. Is that new, too?

Where can you get 595-RSRs for £220 a set?

There is usually a gap, but not that much AFAIK.

You may be right. I can't find anything wrong on the nearside where it sounded like it was coming from, but the ns caliper is definitely slightly loose on the pads. I'm guessing the piston is seized as the sliders were the other day. Ffs.

Ah I see, so you're saying its normal. To be fair, the car won't ever be used on the road, I was just road testing the new shocks/setup.

So is that a wear issue or one with assembly? New top mounts needed? :/ Any info I can get in advance would be a great help. I want to try avoid disassembly for now if possible after I've just had it aligned and with brands on Friday

Any more input, Dan? I wish there was someone local who knew their stuff :/

Make sure you buy a genuine one from Renault - they come up with a new plug to fit, too. It can be a little fiddly, but it's pretty easy to find on the top of the gearbox once the airbox is out.

When going for a larger wheel size, you generally reduce tyre sidewall size to keep the rolling radius constant. Most 15s will be fitted with 195/50/15 tyres, which should be correct for your car, so there will be almost no impact on your speedo or gearing.

edit: read that as shaking, not snaking. I'd definitely look at rear shocks as Tom suggests - mine felt horrendous when I had one go.

It almost sounded like this, but I couldn't see how :/ Are you suggesting play between the sandwich plates or inside the rosejoint part of the top mount it's self? Any suggestions on the next course of action?

Yes, Dan. AST items.

If it's the immobiliser, the immobiliser light will stay solid red. If it's the crank sensor then stopping and immediately retrying starting generally works.

Just gave them a quick check - seems pretty tight! It turned the tube before tightening any more.

I guess it wouldn't hurt to check that. I got them already assembled, straight off another car, so just chucked them on.

Hmm, its hard to put my finger on it, Dan. It certainly rattles to the undulation of the road and isn't a definitive single knock. Its quite soft - I first wondered if it was my bumper missing the lower undertray to support it, but the fact it goes away when feathering the brake seems to kill...

Bit of an odd one. Ever since fitting ASTs I've found a rattle from the OSF when that wheel hits undulations in the road. The odd part of it is that it seems to go away if I feather the brakes. I will pull it all apart tomorrow to check it over, just wondering if anyone else has seen...

My car isn't used on the road. Any idea if anyone has done it with the Aircon and associated alternator setup? Or is the cup alternator setup essential?

My PAS pump is whining - I'm wondering if this may be easier than changing the pump and risking the pipe leaking afterwards, as it often does.

Is there a guide somewhere to the conversion?

The 182 is idling a bit rough and quite often needing a second attempt to start each time. I fitted one of the new blue crank sensors a couple of years back. I'm wondering what the chances are of that failing already or whether perhaps I just need to look at the joints on the replacement plug...

I have the same issue. Steering angle sensor is dead on mine - constantly reads some obscure angle.

Many on here seem to be of the opinion that out of warranty = out of luck. How far is the car outside of warranty? I'd be pushing for a free diagnosis and see what their contribution is. IIRC, the last case of this I saw was on a 197 and they only had to pay a few hundred towards their new...

You are correct. Alternator is in an working great. I had it tested before fitting - in perfect health.

I found it measured at that, I was too lazy to work it out :P

Indeed. I wish I had somewhere flat enough to start with!

Just a note. I've found an alternator that looks identical on a Ph1 Clio 1.6 - the pulley is different, but looks interchangeable. It's 110Amp, too! I will report back when I've had the pulley changed. (I don't have the tools to hold the shaft while undoing the pulley nut - need a long torx...