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Particularly the Aircon model. Anyone know?

With McPh struts its quite easy to make adjustments relative as you have a near 1:1 motion ratio. So as long as you have a measurement to begin with while its level, you can make relative adjustments while its jacked up. That is how I understand it, anyway. I'm still trying to figure out...

I didn't say no one has driven one, I said the majority will be going by reviews and the fact they don't personally like the idea of the dual clutch box. Which will almost certainly be the case. I've not told anyone that they prefer auto or manual? What gives you that idea?

That's fair enough. My local dealer hasn't had one yet, so not had a chance to drive one. I still think cars are subjective and the OP ought to just drive both.

I'd be inclined to ignore the responses on a forum from people that'll largely be talking from their impression of the cars and reviews they've read. Go drive both. You may very well find the Megane is better, but at least you've tried both for yourself. A sporty DCT box is a pro rather than...

That's handy, thanks.

Mine is bang on 1.5 +/- 1 minute. Do you guys tend to reduce camber for wet setup or leave as is and just soften/raise shocks?

-3 front, -1.5 rear. My gut feeling is -1 degree shims for the rear to take it to -2.5, just interested to see what has worked for others.

Ash, what are you running on the rear? I went to -3 recently (standard -1.5 rear) and found it a handful in the wet at brands.

If you want something that'll hold it's money, buy an old Honda or Porsche.

Where did you put the resistors? Does anyone know the locations to put the resistors at the Airbag ECU end and where the Airbag ECU is? My slip ring is broken, so it'd be nice to have a fallback plan.

I have some of the data from a quick search. Track Width: Front 1430mm, rear 1408mm Roll Center Height, Unsprung Mass, Coil Spring Rate (rates for Cup, Non-Cup, Cooksport and Eibachs would be handy!): Standard: 182: 24.3/50.4 NM/mm F/R 182 Cup/Trophy: 31.9/56.5 NM/mm F/R Eibach: Front 18-27...

Does anyone know some or all of the following measurements for a 172/182? Track Width, Roll Center Height, Unsprung Mass, Coil Spring Rate (rates for Cup, Non-Cup, Cooksport and Eibachs would be handy!) Motion Ratio, Bar Outer Diameter, Bar Wall Thickness, Bar Length, Arm Length, Bar Motion...

Thanks. I think it's a dead certainty it was the alternator after it was pouring with smoke lol. Handy thread, though.

Had an auto-electrician look over the car today - no issues with the car and although not-repairable, he claims the alternator just died from wear :/

So you can just leave the rack in place when dropping it? How does that work? surely it's still going to pull on the column?

Thanks guys, that's helpful. I'm starting to doubt whether it needs a clutch or not, however the clutch it biting right at the top of the pedal (to the point where it is difficult to drive) which is probably made more difficult by there being some free movement at the top of the pedal, too...

This is probably just a case of getting an alternator from renparts that was on its way out, however I want to rule out the possibility. Last year mine failed, it was smoking, smelt pretty bad - I think it was the regulator. This morning, its happened again, less than 1000 miles (a year)...

Picked up a cheap 2004 Clio for a family member. Clutch and cambelt need doing. Now, I'm fairly confident I can tackle these after doing them in the 182, but I just wanted a little information going in to it. Is it still necessary on the smaller engined Clios to drop the subframe to remove...

I took a picture of the order before removing mine the other day, might be of some use to you;

Do as Dan says, but FWIW, this is the error code I got when I had an injector fail.

My PAS pump has been super whiney since I got the car, and the Aircon pump has begun to knock when the pulley clutch is engaged, so when a pair of used items came up cheap, I thought it was about time I addressed them both. Any tips for changing them, or even a screenshot from the workshop...

New starter arrived with heatshield. Also got a new solenoid seal and plugs to do while its all off. Got the starter on in about 20, plus about 30 minutes for the bolt on the gearbox side - an absolute pain in the ass. At first glance, however, it doesn't seem entirely obvious which way the...

I took it apart. Two of the brushes had just fallen apart, so it looks like it may have been a case of wear rather than heat.

I took it out the top. Autoelectrician reckons its the motor that is shagged. Renparts it is, then.

One thing I did notice was that the dephaser side of the rocker cover is covered in oil, as well as puddles of oil on top of the lower inlet. Can't see a source - thoughts?

I just did it without even jacking the car up. Probably took me an hour to get it out, that's with pulling the inlet and exhaust manifold off. Something sounds pretty rattly in it, so let's hope that's just something in the actuator. Its taking all my will power not to pull it apart, but I'd...

We have a local auto-electrical place that does stuff like alternator rewinds etc. I'll give them a go. Edit: They do indeed do it. £25.

Thanks Chip, I'm just waiting on a quote from Renparts for starter and heat shield.