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Don't quote me on this, but I think they are valved differently, No larger shaft. Supposed to be a litle stiffer. As they cost no more than standard dampers, its a bit of a no brainer to go for them if you're replacing anyway!

What about me?! Terrible... lol.

I forgot to say, Water pump is on the aux belt, normally they show signs of failure, before they fully do.

You need codes from Renault still. I'd check the white plug in the engine bay fusebox, corrosion on that can cause what appear like UCH issues. Also, do you realise you can only program NEW UCH's?

Doesn't mean yours couldn't be a lot better though dave. Minimum I'd want to do is at least check the condition of the shocks, top mounts and balljoints etc. If its not broke, don't fix it. I'd imagine your shocks, and top mounts are probably a bit past it, and for the price of shocks, it could...

This is simialr to the dicsussion on how to run an engine in, either careful, no full throttle, low rpm, OR load the engine up, giving it lots of full throttle, but also lots of off throttle. I have the view of the latter, which probably comes from when a family friend asked me to run hin a...

I was dicussing injectors yesterday, New you can only buy one set for the 65/80, which fits both, so I can't see a differance there, I know the 80 have a slightly better injector nozzle, but I think that is due to spray pattern more than anything. @HMS Derv Destroyer DCi 80 should have a...

Any specialist would do the aux belt kit at the same time, and cam seals if required, Other than that, its about it. Water pump if it has play, or is leaking, but they often go for well over 100k. Genuine only on that too!

lol! Its a engine hoist point/enigne cover securing peice. Its not important, so don't worry really.

Ph1 = JC5 089 Ph2 = JC5 129 Late 172/182 = JC5 130. Gearing will be shorter on the later boxes, Ph1 has longer gearing. Both a 089 and a 129 has speed sensor in box. Easy to identify though. Hope that helps!

I've had a search, and couldn't find too much on this, so want a few more suggestions, I've not had time to have a proper look, just 10mins in the dark! 172 Ph2 with climate. Blower motor works, no pollen filter fitted, and all the flaps appear to move as they should (I watched the gears etc...

With how things are for me atm, I'm not saying anything, as things keep changing. Might be late.

Mark don't worry about picking me up, I'm working on @meekings14's car, so he can give me a lift.

Read through the whole thread, its taken bloody hours. Epic build, get it finished!

Is he not doing them tight enough, or forgeting? Either is terrrible....

I don't really understand all the techy stuff, but I can understand how damn cool all this is, clever s**t, top job.

Whats the deal with the 5? Needs a thread!

This was going to be my suggestion. Only option in Essex really, Not sure if their Dyno is done yet!

Wiring goes through to the UCH, and a couple of relays IIRC. This topic has come up loads, a search will say, If they are there, they must work, but you can remove, and the car will pass mot, poss advisory. Its not a requirement for MOT, just Vehicle Type Approval.

Ah Winning

What does the alternator put out though? If that can't keep up, it means sod all what battery you have. Sorry if you have already covered/thought about this, but a lot of people misunderstand battery/alternator/car electrics in general!

Agreed, although one of those shots with a transparent bonnet would be epic, in a nice bit of scenery.

You were delaying me from helping! Thats my excuse anyway!

Maybe, but I like shiney stuff. Cheers guys, I can't take all the credit for the mounts, my mate did a lot of work too.

Don't forget me. Although you suck at replying to texts.

Yeah, cheers dude. Nah I won't be at the ace, even if I had time, I dont fancy it in any of the vehicles I have availiable.

Scott is right there. Will need programming.

Cheers dude. I was thinking about the mounts and subframe to protect them mostly, I am concerned this is going to turn into a shiney engine bay etc, with a dirty diesel engine lol. I think I'll paint the bits now for protetion, then worry about it later, too much else to worry about atm.

Or go to a specialist, should be cheaper. Or a autolocksmith. Ebay keys are £20 and good quality, then programming, you can swap the keyblade obviously.

And thats the rear mount done, pretty solid. Towed home, now I need to work outdriveshafts, and then strip loads of bits so I can paint, or powdercoat them. I need to do something about the Subframe and engine mounts so thinking about powdercoat, although I think that'll start a bad run of...