Search results

thanks - that's looking like the friendliest option. surprised at how expensive they are from Renault still open to suggestions if anyone knows of an alternative source for new OE spec springs:)

should be able to manage it on your own - just need to push/lever the engine about

do you know how long the joint might have been exposed for? if it had been off for a while, there's a danger damage might already have been done to the joint

just wondering what you guys have done as and when the rear springs snap - i particularly don't want to replace with a set of lowered/stiffened springs, although Renault have quoted me £90+VAT (!!) per spring. s/h is an option, but does anyone know what's available otherwise? thanks

you need a 10mm spanner/socket - the undertray's held up by a bolt in each corner - can probably remove it without jacking it up. failing that, just pull it out. can't see it causing a problem, but guess you wouldn't want it getting wrapped up in a driveshaft or the exhaust system or something

another suggestion - make up a board for the boot floor and screw another strip of wood onto it, to keep the box in one place

it sounds like the liner for the undertray - not needed if it's badly damaged; if it's OK, whip the undertray off and put it back in

the point about damage to the front dampers leading to a write-off is one of the things i'd wondered about running a Trophy - not good have you looked into sorting it out away from the insurance? seems unlikely you'd be able to sort it all for less than £500, but sounds as though it could be...

vaseline or white grease ed. that's not a euphemism for something either

it's on now - sure that's how it's intended to go together. the inner diameter of the rubber mount was tight over the spindle on mine; just needed a thump. it's easiest to push the two smaller bolts up from underneath and fit the stuff on over them, otherwise it's fiddly trying to push them...

i'm looking at doing this at the moment as well and, as far as i can see, the order of fitting on the KTEC site is right (?) don't seem to need to remove the battery tray or the spindle (although i'm going to, to threadlock the lower nut on - keeps working loose on mine) - rubber coated...

that's what i'm planning on doing eventually - it's handy having a second set for lots of reasons and the cheaper the better. wheels obv. need to be dead-straight, and i was planning on using a cheap road tyre that puts up with track driving (not all 'good' road tyres will) - something like...

is this a 172/182 and are you referring the the manifold->head gasket? i've not done one, but it looks a pain as there's not much room and you'd presumably end up having to remove the manifold to be able to clean everything anyway are you 100% that it's not one of the cat/system joints? i...

if you've a bench-mounted vice, the big one's easy to remove - it just presses out, using a suitable piece of tube i think i just prised the smaller one out with a screwdriver, although you could hacksaw it - the metal tube's only alloy just need to be careful not to damage the alloy arm...

have a look at either wheel to see if one of the cables has snapped - don't need to jack it up or anything - use a pair of pliers to pull on the exposed cable stop to check that the cable hasn't snapped somewhere along its length. also worth whipping off the plastic cover from the handbrake...

they're the same caliper as used on the back of the 205GTi and i had loads of similar bother with mine on that particular car - it was always down binding due to caliper/handbrake mech problems. not sure what else it could be; seems unlikely, but may be a bad batch of pads?

are the rears perhaps binding? caliper/handbrake mech problems?

got Reds on the front of mine; they're not up to much from cold, but are good when hot. still haven't tracked them, so can't comment on fade. they don't squeal, but are surprisingly dusty (in comparison with Greens anyway). wish i'd gone for Yellows, given other's comments about cold performance.

personally, i think one of the most important things to be sure of when buying one of these is the condition of the gearbox - it's a recurring theme

try tapping/shaking the box with it in-situ. if it doesn't do it then, you'd have to whip the silencers off to give them a good shake

or is there a drain plug for the block? perhaps mine's now 5.5l coolant:1.5l tap water:rolleyes: ed. twigged - presumably the rest is in the heater matrix circuit

i think mine only took about 5.5l, although i removed the thermostat to flush the block when i did mine - quite a lot of coolant was released from behind the stat housing. may be the 7l's just an overquote? you'd need a gasket for the stat housing if you remove it - *think* it's 8200267272

fasttyres.co.uk were good when i looked last

you can get hold of the Contisports for about £60ea online; think the Michelins are a fair bit more (£80?) what have you got on at the moment - if you've more than two of a decent make with decent tread, might save you a fair whack by putting those on the rear and buying a couple more to put...

:)thanks for the kind thought mate, but i think i'm going to renew them

the Cup's splitter is about an inch deep

wasn't Fred looking to make some out of FG once? i've had no bother with mine, but wouldn't be happy having to shell out £150 for a strip of plastic; the slightly cheaper CF alternative doesn't appeal either

are the dampers all new?

just had a look in the 182 workshop manual (PM your email-addy if you'd like it), and it suggests it's 12min toe out (+/- 5min) - a minute is a 60th of a degree. it doesn't differentiate between Cup/non Cup, so it might be worth a read to be sure there's nothing else in there. what were you...

sounds as though they've just mucked up the tracking. they'll not have adjusted anything else, as nothing else is adjustable. just take it somewhere else (have you a local Protyre?) and explain that you're particularly keen on seeing the wheel's dead-straight once they've done. it's also...