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Coming to me for a Canems I hope

depends very much on the condition of the internals when it's stripped. whether or not it needs valve guides can be a difference of over £200 for example, and that's just one item. Ideally you'd just do everything but sometimes customers only want to have what needs doing changed, rather than...

24-28Nm

pretty common, usually on cyl 2 for some reason. Cost is hard to pin down until it's done unfortunately, one of those jobs that should be straightforward, but may need an callout fee to the engine reconditioner/machinist to bring out their special tools to do in-situ

looks and feels cheaper made, because it is. Work ok though. Don't expect it to fit without some messing about. You'll need all new nuts and bolts for the fan for a start, and a couple of holes won't line up

I could if I wanted to though, but I don't, because they are. I've driven a few and fitted a few, and they always feel flat. You can justify that as "easier to drive smoothly" if you want, but in reality it unresponsive, something which ITB's are meant to improve

oh and almost impossible to add good brake servo vacuum take-offs without restricting throttle movement. I bet you have a bit of fuel hose lashed on like this....

worst linkages known to man, which get in the way of absolutely every bolt during fitting, making them un-necessarily difficult to use. They're also exceptionally hard to balance, the screws are inaccesible They're badly thought out, the ports are smaller than the standard port, and the material...

nope, not in the slightest. I think they're the best they could be. Just messes with logic a little that one mans best is so much better than everyone else that has ever tried, including some exceptional engineers/engine builders

didn't mean to cause such a defensive response. For the record, engines I've built have made figures I didn't/don't believe either. Still front runners I don't rate DD rollers fully, it's about trusting thre operator more than anything. They're exceptionally easy to fudge or just use the wrong...

I'd never buy an important part like that from Ebay personally. Just saw you mentioned Transmech in your first post, these are reconditioned clutches, and far inferior to premium quality parts

email, or phone during opening hours. all contact details on website or traders pages on here www.519automotive.co.uk enquiries@519automotive.co.uk

that's weird. Fred slated me for saying LUK were as good as valeo or genuine

I wouldn't question the quality of the work. The big gap (rather than just being a bit better) over everyone elses figures (not the most important thing in reality) just raises questions.

replied to your email yesterday

also correct, could have gone for peak power with the burpspeed F4R, but the aim I was given to start with was pulling out of corners better that the previous season

well you need solid lifters and uprated valve springs to get past ~175bhp at 7500rpm, anything above that without and you just get valve bounce, and airated lifters.

I'm always dubious of those figures from that engine. Having been involved with a few there's a bit of a brick wall limit a fairly significant way below 200. Everyone else who's ever worked on them accepts the same rough limits. To go past 200 you need to hit some insane revs, which means rods...

you can buy them. they're wrong and start vibrating and knocking after about a week, as they're the wrong length

Just sat laughing for about 5 minutes. Sorry ;)

It's common practice to make it clear what work needs doing

Seen a 60k ish car go for £2.8k. Nice car too

have they not marked the problem area with yellow chalk/paint?

over the lower idler you need a new tensioner and idler. This isn't a "maybe" sitauation. It's an auto tensioner, if the belt was loose, the tensioner is seized

is it a full ready to go kit with every nut and bolt included? no

Genuine rear disks only, ever. Motrio pads are just fine, rear doesn't do much braking really, it's the bearings you need to worry about being good quality, and a set of disks with bearings pre-pressed costs about the same as a pair of genuine bearings on their own

I wouldn't fit Apex to anything, they're nasty. I use PI, with regular positive results. Everyone that buys eibach seems to be disappointed they don't actually lower the car, in my experience.

Snap but from a former orange customer. It got a LOT worse when they joined with Toss-mobile, and it's gradually got worse since

under valueing your time Mick. I'm £139.50 (part cost + 1.5 hours)

Good progress as usual. can't wait for this to be rolling Just read that spec list in the magazine feature. That there is why you should never ever believe anything a magazine journalist says. PMSL at "Williams widetrack rims"