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genuine kit it about 40% of the price of buying motor factor parts. £72 for the whole lot, or usually £145 for the tensioner on it's own if you get it in a gates box. Don't skimp, just do the lot, you're wasting your time doing anything else
sharft don't need to come out of the hub, undo the balljoints form the lower arm, and remove the center bearing carrier from the back of the block and you can swing the hubs away enough for the shafts to come out of the box and clear enough to not get in the way
Did one last week. Nothing hugely special, leave the AC connected and unbolt the pump from the block, then swing it clear, disconnect the loom from the engine and leave it connected at the car end, remove the whole front end and front half of the subframe. the rest is just normal procedure
read closer!!!! they wil be rated at 50psi MAXIMUM. you want to set them to 30-32psi when cold
also, if you're only getting 20-25mpg, something is broken
I'm utterly underwhelmed by any new phones at the moment. Not due an upgrade for a few months yet though.
Pretty unexcited by 10 inch~ tablets carrying pricetags well over laptop money without the functionality to be a full replacement too. Probably going to end up with a Dell Latitude 10 with...
If you want to flush the engine, get some 10w40 semi synth, run it for 50-100 miles, then change it when the engine is fully warmed. Don't use chemical flushes, at best they will loosen carbon deposits that were happily doing no damage.