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Halo 3 was my first 360 game, smashed it for months online. Cannot wait for 4 and online shenanigens

FLOL. Can I say I told you so now?

They'll be fine. Probably not my first choice but they'll still work effectively

you can, I put some on a ph1 last week

it is worth removing the clutch pedal and ratchet mechanism to see if it's working right. Had a Scenic that gave me a real headache a few months back

I like that. Love a good mk1. I miss mine for the pure fun

I think you've misunderstood what he said. It shouldn't cost you anywhere near that

Listen to this man. Always. He's really quite good with motorsport electronics ;)

definitely cambelt has been fitted wrong. That's all it can be from what's been done

no, that would be the other way round.

if it had 6 degrees toe out before it wouldn't have driven. I just took it as talking nonsense and that wasn't what the alignment guy said at all LOL

cable looks normal in that pic to me by the way, you have to pull it out to hook it in

yes it's important to get it the right way

what did you do with the rear dampers when you had the front's refurbed?

PMSL!!!! What's in the way? bars or flat plates?

did you clean/de-grease the clutch and flywheel, and de-glaze the flywheel face with coarse sandpaper before fitting?

this Is there an actual problem with how it drives? I don't think you had an issue

i read the whole post and missed that.....lol

in Letchworth you're 15 minutes from me!!!

I have that. Not what I'd call a starter kit. That's also quite expensive as they're £499+vat new

just go through the big hole and yank it out

small pry bar with angled end, it'll be out in seconds

Might head down to Brands Pete. Got an IK we can possibly try too

May still come if I get time to put fuel in mine and change the oil. Havn't driven it in weeks since having the mx5, a run would do it good

there are 2 versions of that linkage, Early boxes had a knurled insert that wears and needs replacing and a separate bolt, this was the same parts as a mk1 or a 5GTT etc. Anything after about 2001 should have the later linkage with the threaded section attached to the linkage rod, but I've seen...

you might be able to identify the manufacturer by opening it and looking at the board as mostly ECU's are stamped like this, but you are going to struggle to get much info on that. I'd recommend modernising. See it as an opportunity.

i run 20mins toe out, much nicer as it weights up the steering slightly and improves stability

might help to know what ECU it is

Chris, are you back for more than a few hours yet?

hour, plus new cam core plugs, so about £60