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Quote: Originally posted by cat171 on 28 August 2005 clio16v1996 - your bay is sexy as fook mate, I dont think ive ever seen one so clean. top work there :D lol christ think i got some work to do then.. considering the photo of my engine in the engine bay is just after ive de-greased and...

Quote: Originally posted by Djw Dave on 27 August 2005 Quote: Originally posted by Mole on 27 August 2005Quote: Originally posted by JonnyK on 27 August 2005 ive got the fastest RT ;):) is that a challenge? :D Dude have you got your transplant all sorted? What kind of power is the beast...

Quote: Originally posted by JonnyK on 27 August 2005 ive got the fastest RT ;):) is that a challenge? :D

http://www.clio-turbo.co.uk/photos/albums/admin/car/Engine/normal_engine-2.jpg http://www.clio-turbo.co.uk/photos/albums/admin/car/Engine/normal_engine-6.jpg http://www.clio-turbo.co.uk/photos/albums/admin/car/Engine/normal_engine-13.jpg

why would you change the filter and not the oil. that just doesnt make sense lol

get a bodyshop to machine polish it, or find someone on here that has a porter cable polisher, youll be suprised at the results, itll come up all sparkly and new. [Edited by Mole on 8/27/2005 4:24:41 PM] Check out this link below, just shows you what you can do with a machine polisher :)...

if its a change of colour i do believe you have to notify the insurance, i know on the admiral and elephant site they have a tick box for full respray. You also have to get your logbook changed, as that states the colour of your car.

your prob looking at atleast £1.5k for an alright job. Mine cost me £1400 on my clio mk1. Itll cost even more if you want the engine bay resprayed, as the engine etc has all got to come out, degreased etc etc

My mk1 ph1 1.4 RT which has now had its engine converted to something a bit more powerful :) http://www.steven-petersen.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/photos/26-03-05/pic-17a.jpg

Not all cars have top engine mounts, it varies from engine/car. the swing arms, are actually called wishbones. Basically sounds correct thou, if your going for a simple explination of how its all connected :)

Quote: Originally posted by White16valver on 25 August 2005 Has has them I think - look alright if matched I think. Hass ones are the proper colour coding rear lights, not just a mask over the originals. I think if you got the ones Has has got on his, (see the k-tec website) then it...

Quote: Originally posted by Swervin_Mervin on 25 August 2005 No, he means grease surely? Thats what tends to be in CV joints. No, that CV joint uses gearbox oil, as it goes into the gearbox. Its the only CV joint that doesnt use grease

http://www.buypartsby.co.uk/exhausts_details.php?recordID=2322Click Me http://www.buypartsby.co.uk/timax/720724.png The catalytic convertor is about £100 from them, but ive got 1 which has only done 10 miles from new when bought a year ago which i dont require anymore

check the board that the bulbs screw into, as thats got copper tracks on it, which when they start corroding and getting that green fuzz around it, that can cause there to be a short. Give it a good cleanup, and see if that cures your problem

look behind the cam pulley, the big one right at the top, i do believe theres an oil seal there, that would prob explain all the oil just below it by the tensioner. It would be a good idea to replace the belt anyway as its all contaminated in oil. If youve got the green haynes manual for...

Hello Chris. Theres a chap on my local cruise site that runs his own Evo Specialist Garage, might be worth a chat with him, as Im sure if he cant lighten it himself, hell know of an engineering firm in Newington thatll do it Not much on his site, but you can get the email address from...

think your mate is pulling your leg, over 40bhp up from standard. what you got on it then that would gain you that much power. 2 ebay resistor chips??

the one that does the few scrappies, and emails you back saying if they have anything in stock is PartsGateway... http://www.partsgateway.co.uk/http://www.partsgateway.co.uk/ But id go to Specialist renault breakers first, before trying them :)

the smell usually gives it away, gearbox oil smells different to normal engine oil, well the stuff ive used anyway. Colour of oil aswell... noticed when i drained my gearbox oil that the gearbox oil was a sortof grey colour, whereas used engine oil is more brown/black

Not sure about checking the level, but to fill it up, theres a cap that screws into the side of the gearbox, or a sump nut (square drive, not sure on the size), this will be at the front of the engine, facing towards the radiator (well on the mk1 clios anyway) Basically to fill it up just use...

lol I had exactly the same problem with a friends clio, on the inner gaitor which goes into the gearbox, was changing the passenger side spring over as his one had broken into 3 pieces. Went to fit the strut, pulled down on the wishbone and the gaitor came away from the gaitor bearing...

Just use some exhaust putty around the flanges, when you tighten the bolts up it should form a good seal. If not use some silicone sealant, the exhaust doesnt get hot enough to burn the silicone, and its flexable :)

The higher the number, the more weight the tyre can take, not that its really important on a clio. 80 - 450kg per wheel 81 - 462kg 82 - 475kg 83 - 487kg 84 - 500kg think 82 is the most common one which is fine

get yourself some gunk engine degreaser, and just degrease as much as u can :) I remember mine just stank for ages, about 3000 odd miles, and by then id taken the engine out

didnt you replace your rocker cover gasket not so long ago? because oil was leaking, going down into the spark plug recesses and down the front of the engine. If so, then its still burning it off no doubt. If you havent lost any oil, then its just the old leaked stuff burning off, takes ages

all depends on what alloys some just clip off, some have a key, such as the turbines

cool, glad to hear its all coming together, after all the trouble u had. heard about that guy near me who dropped out :( god knows why, truely mint motor youve got. As for progress on mine, its still in bits after blowing the top rad hose because of some blockage in the rad, and i ran it dry :(

i dont think its that pricey to get it done actually, think it makes it more free reving which i guess is always good :) Glad to hear that progress is being made mate :)

That bottom rad hose can be a right b**ch sometimes, but why were u removing the heater matrix pipes anyway? it all gets flushed out anyway when u bung the hosepipe in the expansion bottle/tank

when i had my 1.4 engine, there was quite a bit of crap in each spark plug recess, mainly lumps of old oil which had solidified. Just take the plug out carefully. Unless its something like lots of metal swarf, i wouldnt really worry. As for cross threading them, youll feel it try and cross...