Search results

a mis firing sound and uneven idle is normal its an emission control thing, missfire under load is not normal

the faults found on a scanner might not be the actual unit it could be the wiring or plug or even assosicated component or even an internal fault in the ecu. just 'cos the code says "Throttle Position Sensor Circuit A". it may not be the ACTUAL sensor thats at fault you may need to look deeper

this is true, i'd just prefer to mount them on the upper bolts imo. but untill anyone bothers to pull test these things (not likely) or has a big crash (more likely) we wont really know

yes however i will say that the oe belt and seat and mounts are pull tested as a unit as it were therefore one single item may not able to take that force

CAN network not that advanced on clio's of that age EOBD (European On Board Diagnostics) basically diag socket

why not experiment its all about trail and error, problem with reno's is its usually more error LOL

take 'em off and inspect them otherwise your just guessing

do you want uprated? http://www.k-tecracing.com/show_product.asp?id=610

mine leaked from the cam carrier/cover i just nipped the bolts up slightly and it cured it

apex are i believe better than most budget springs but i would use the dampers too if going as low as -60mm 'cos the oe ones would probably overstroke at that

i should think mounting them on the lower bolts would exceed 45deg, i'd put them on the upper mountings they look to be a better angle if a little high but the oe mounting bolts are pull tested for strength anything home made isnt

they get fuckin hot and engine bay temps are crazy!

i doubt it, also they are probably different with and without air and bound to be different again for climate.

i thought it was just the id wire for the light and nothing to do with starting charging, i thought the alternator charged without being switched on as such (but then again i'm NOT an electrician just a lowly diesel fitter LOL)

faulty alternator imo. or slipping belt if you've just fitted an alternator recently check the basics

so long as coolant level and temp is normal it can't be coolant probably damp as said, just check your other fluids too, to be safe

i'd still put another cable on it and make sure its routed perfectly and try it again the ph1 cable is crap and has some horrid tight turns in it that create tight spots

hi i can't get to grips with this thread at all and the alkyhol isnt helping LOL did ben do his body kit or not?

reno stealers :( especially camden northampton i would'nt trust them to tell me if its raining or not LOL

if its a cable throttle change the cable, trust me if they hang on a few rpm when you back off its usually the cable! also if it is a ph1 172 with a cable throttle and standard body why do the need to program it??

cheers buddy good site well done fubar :clap: and yup it really is that much of a job i thought i was going the long way about it LOL

he has a website? what is it i wanna read the guide too 'cos i probably do it all wrong, it really can't be as difficult as i make it

bulb gone, and i believe its a t**t of a job to get the top of the dash off to get at it

it works to keep bay temps down as well as protect things that could be affected by heat. also hot gasses travel faster then cooler ones therefore if you keep the heat in the exhaust it 'll work better

yeah take it back to reno and ask them if they wanna fix it this time!

i cant remember the dia. but the lamp comes out with 2 screws so its easy enough to measure. i got the bit of kit from ebay weird thing the rear fog on the same side packed up when the front was disconnected must be linked, i'm not bothered you only need one for MOT and i don't use 'em anyway

if you like still a proper haynes statement tho :rasp: also i believe one of the mount bolts goes through the lower half of the fannimold therefore it needs to come out to remove the lower section. its bloody tight behind it too so just get it outa the way

see if it happens again. i take it was a cold engine, see if its a bit lumpy/hesitant when cold

quality LOL haynes special !! to take off wheel, first disconnect battery, then blah blah blah PMSL

long and short 3/8 drive sockets pref single hex. some extensions and a swan neck spanner (can't remember what size) to get at the one c**t bolt. something to support the engine with. oh and be very careful when putting the pipe back on the end of the fuel rail. if you crush the 'o' ring it 'll leak