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to fit the complete kit, i think you'd have to run the wiring for them, fit the adjuster on the rear axle, and headlight units, and ballast pack(s) easier and cheaper going for the aftermarket addon.

20±3 i think

check the caliper, will tell you what type - i think they're lucas/girling though

my mates mk4 golf does it, so did his last one. Not sure what it is, but its meant to do it - on the golf atleast.

35mm? you want to lower it atleast 60mm, you'll regret it otherwise! im lowered 60mm on 17's, sits pretty much spot on. Could go alot lower aswell though.

172/182 headlight units still look slightly better though. Pretty expensive, and time consuming doing it with renault parts though

dead easy. unscrew the bumpstrip from the door, pull it towards the rear of the car to remove it, then you'll see how the badges come off. Take them off, push new ones on, refit. Dont know how much they cost though.

why didnt i think of that... saves me having to try and sell mine.

mk2 ph1 for me, although they're boring looking unless they're colour coded. Then it'd have to be the ph2 172 for me. willy's are also very nice...!

oh right, didnt realise, carry on! lol we dont have said luxuries in the mk2's.

yeah, if you managed to push it back out, it'd probably never look like it did before, best left to a pro as you say. When i park near big things i dont feel safe parking near, i take a photo of their car with my phone... might sound sad to some though! lol

my cars been lowered (60mm) for a year now, around 30k covered in that year. Never fully understood how to 'check' driveshafts though, might sound really stupid to some though! lol checked the dogbone mount, and the left hand mount looks ok, wouldnt have thought this would cause the...

erm... thought the guage measured coolant temperature and not oil temperature? if its stupidly high, i'd be looking at the cooling system first! silkolene gets my vote, without a doubt the best oil i've ever used.

i couldnt get any of the caps on the eazybleed kit to fit properly, so ended up getting a mate to help me do it manually - to be honest its not hard at all to do manually. dont know about the hoses, never had to use any 'special' tools before though.

so the knocking when accelerating on cornering is likely just to be the ball joints? if so, you've just made my night! :)

cheers! i've got a cracking/knocking noise when pulling off, but also on cornering (only when accelerating, not if the accelerator is balanced, or i lift off completely)... any idea's? the plan is just to replace all the bushes, both ball joints and strut bearings in one go, cause to...

no other tell tale signs by way of noises etc? my steering is far from precise anyway, but thats most likely down to the fact the steelies are now back on....

just a quick question, what are the symptoms of excessively worn ball joints? never had a problem with ball joints in my puff.

depends on the 1.2!!! will fit some 1.2's, wont fit some older ones.

bushes? could be worn, may not be.

on the d7f, its a really easy job, only has one camshaft, just a case of supporting the engine, taking off the left hand engine mount and timing belt covers, line up the reference marks, remove tensioner and idler, refit new ones, new belt on, tension belt, make sure marks are still lining up...

what kinda power do you expect from the cams? and how much roughly are you looking for them? i'd be impressed if they did anything semi reasonable for power, but could be willing to try them, lol. as for the belt tension, just tighten the tensioner when you can twist the belt 90 degrees in...

a full apex kit is just under £300. lower the car atleast 60mm, anything less just isnt enough.

locks will go straight on. You'll need a new key (well the plip atleast) as far as im aware, as once they're programmed once, they cant be reprogrammed, to the best of my knowledge.

72k or every 5 years, whatever comes first. I'd prefer to do mine early though, after mine snapping at 73k.

wouldnt bother, a set of eibach springs would be much better.

the imobiliser requires the ECU and UCH afaik, it a modular immobiliser in that sense. So yes it is tied to the ECU, more so than you'd think. There isnt a master key for the clio.

who cares? topic seems to be an excuse for an argument now, lol. Taking the steeringwheel off and centering that, thus having the rack offset, is a bodge to most people, including myself. As for being less easy to lock up in the wet, it could be helped by the tracking.

you probably wont find half decent styling for the 172... most things just spoil them. The cup splitter is nice, i'd personally have left it, anything else is ott or just doesnt suit the lines of the 172. Wind deflectors will fit if they fit a non-RS, same doors/windows really.

brake pipes? not very specific. If its the metal pipes you're needing made up, try your local motor factors - they should be able to make up a set based on the originals. If you mean hoses, then as above, GSF.