Search results

At this time of year, it’s beneficial to use an oil that has good cold start flow properties as it will get to the parts of the engine that need it far more quickly when you turn the key on those sub zero mornings. The "w" number which means winter is the key here and the lower it is the...

Yes and no, there are additives in there to prevent carbon build up, but they are also in 'petrol' oils too. If you look on a can of oil, there will be an ACEA spec on the back, something like ACEA A3/B3. A refers to petrol specs, B refers to diesel and most of the time the numbers are likely to...

I would hope the 300V will sort out the consumption issues, it's a more stable oil than the Halfords stuff, so shouldn't burn off as quickly. Yes, it's ideal for a Supra TT. 5w-40 is the best grade for them, even with BPU, it's only when they have big single turbos that you need a thicker...

Most garages will save a couple of quid anywhere they can, not all, but most that I've dealt with. One problem is they often don't really understand like for like, Carlube 5w-40 is a pretty basic 5w-40, Castrol Edge is one of the better ones, just below the top end ester based oils, but all they...

Fair enough, but what sort of synthetic? Cheap 'synthetics' aren't really synthetics, they are highly modified mineral oils. Yes they are better than semis etc, and fine for road use, but not as good as the top end stuff.

Not so sure about that, at the moment they are made by Castrol, according to what we've heard, but it really doesn't matter as the oil is just a basic one made as cheaply as possible to meet the requirements Halfords set. Even if Comma are making the Halfords stuff at the moment, I doubt it's...

Hi Those additives are a waste of money, most do nothing, others are harmful. We're not big fans of Royal Purple, the oils are generally okay, but hideously overpriced. We also had some chemically analysed and found high levels of sulphur. In an engine, the heat can cause the sulpur to...

It really doesn't matter who makes it, it's made to a budget by the lowest bidder, so it's not as good as a proper Castrol oil. The basestock used and additive package are a lot more basic than the ones used in the proper Castrol oils. Another thing, the guy at Halfords isn't going to tell your...

As long as it's not been opened, it will be fine. Give it a shake to make sure the additives haven't settled out, but other than that it will be okay.

Good choice and thanks for the order

Hi Adam I think a couple of their oils are genuine synthetic, but not all of them and I'm pretty sure they don't make any ester ones. Cheers Tim

If you want the best, go for a top end ester oil like the Fuchs Pro S, Redline, Gulf Competition, Millers CFS or Motul 300V, they are the best oils on the market. http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-656-5w-40.aspx

Yes and no. Regular changes can be important, but even if you change a basic oil every couple of weeks, it still won't give as good protection as a top end oil changed annually or at 10k

Yes, most race type oils are fine for road use, very few aren't. Millers CFS is top quality stuff, ideal for road and track use.

You were right, but they discontinued it

I guess it's still under warranty, so you need an oil that meets the Renault 710 spec, so here are some suitable ones http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-878-motul-8100-x-clean-5w-40-acea-c3-gasoline-diesel-lubricant-for-euro-iv-engines.aspx...

Pro S is top end stuff, as good as oil gets. Gally, I can't really answer your question as apart from Mobil 1, the rest are brands that produce several different oils of varying quality. Mobil 1 is pretty good, a proper synthetic, the step below the top end oils like the Pro S All oils are...

Hi Adam Pretty average stuff, nothing special really. Cheers Tim

You can top up with either, all engine oils mix. Cheers Guy

I would use a 5w-40 synthetic and you will find those through the link below. http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-656-5w-40.aspx Out of those, the best ones are the Fuchs/Silkolene Pro S, Millers CFS, Motul 300V, Redline and Gulf Competition. The Motul 8100 X-Cess, Gulf Formula G, Fuchs Supersyn...

5w-40 synthetic, loads to choose from :) http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-656-5w-40.aspx Cheers Guy

5w-40 synthetic, loads to choose from http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-656-5w-40.aspx Cheers Guy

Those claims are a bit outdated from Carlube. TVR and Lotus did have deals with Carlube at one point, but not anymore to our knowledge.

Here you go, from the Fuchs description

Personally I wouldn't use it, it's pretty basic stuff. http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-656-5w-40.aspx Out of those, the best ones are the Fuchs/Silkolene Pro S, Millers CFS, Motul 300V, Redline and Gulf Competition. The Motul 8100 X-Cess, Gulf Formula G, Fuchs Supersyn and Mobil Synt S are...

Glad to have helped

Hi Steven The engine oil will be fine after just a few months. You*need an MTF for the gearbox and I would go with the Redline MTL, Amsoil MTF or Fuchs Sintofluid. The Millers EP 75w-80 is a good cheaper alternative * http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-670-75w-80-75w-85-mtfs.aspx 3 litres...

It just comes down to how good an oil you want. If you want the best protection, have a look at the top end ester based oils, or if you want a good, cheaper option, there are the mid range synthetics. http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-656-5w-40.aspx Out of those, the best ones are the...

It shouldn't be too much of a difference as it's only the next step thicker.

We've recommended a 75w-90? Really it should be a 75w-80 or 70w-80, they are a bit thinner when hot than the 75w-90 and make it easier to change gear when the oil is hot. Go for the Redline MTL, Amsoil MTF or Fuchs Sintofluid in yours. The Millers EP 75w-80 is a good cheaper alternative *...