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No ohv refers to having the camshaft further down in the engine, operating pushrods connected, usually through a rocker arrangement, to the valves. A OHC is just refers to the fact that the cam is above the valves and operated on them more directly. CVH engines are OHC, but operate a type of...

yeah, theory sound, but £125 does seem a lot for something so simple, anybody sampled this

Having had this problem on my own valver, including rumbling round slight corners, and its not always the rack. Track rod ends often get blamed and replaced with no change. Before changing the rack, check the inner track arm joint, under the gaitor on rack end. These can wear, and it is often...

Infinicar, they seem to have plenty 16v, Willy and 19 16v bits, I have enquired to them about a 2.0 engine, but I am just wondering what they are like, website is promising, but I would be buying an engine pretty much blind off them (i.e. not seeing it) so would really have to trust them on it...

While I have my valvers engine out, am going to change clutch, since I aint taking it out again. What the view, and whats the prices, should I go for 1. Standard 16v 2. Uprated one for 16v 3. R5gt uprated jobby (am I right in saying this fits, i.e. the one on eurocarparts) Sorry I know...

jimbo1, not sure of the setup, but if you can take the oil pick up pipe off also, whilst sump is off, clean out the end bit (usually metal mesh) in petrol or similar as they get really clogged up, and its this the oil pump has to suck through

16v, willys, they are all the same cat back, I have a K-Tec 4 slashcut, with decat and had a lot of trouble getting it to sit right, without being noisy. Ended up cutting one mount, and adjusting another to get it all nice, however my car runs standard ride height, so you boys with lowering...

No, ball joints are weak, but wishbones and subframes are fine if they avoid rot, and accident damage. Jack car up, but leave wheel on, get a bar and lever wheel about, including underneath it, and listen to where it is coming from (get an assistant if necessery) replace noisy part, all...

Its best if you dont use it as there is a high chance of further damage, but it all depends how bad it is gone. Slight gasket blows can leave car drivable for a while. If, when running it doesnt need topped up to often, i.e at least half hour, before it is reaching bottom of expansion tank, a...

Bit of bad luck there mate, I had similar (head gasket goes a week after pranging car), its a bugger. By the way is not loads of hassle taking engine out the bottom, its a tight one out the top but surely thats easier and quicker

Try and keep it, get longer pipes and find a home for it round the front somewhere as it is worthwhile, especially if you are considering and track work with her once shes done

Scatman, did you replace track rod arms when rack was changed (not sure does new rack come with new control arms fitted) but the inner joint on these wears and can cause the symptoms you are describing

Roamer, did they change the tensioner and idler when they changed belt, as sometime they get really noisy after a belt change, could be them, think its best if they get changed also

89k 1994 M CLio 16v, currently in pieces

bugger, I have bought it religiously (only car mag that seems to know what it is actually on about) for years. Having said that was flicking through a few old issues recently and the mag hasnt been as good lately as it has in the past, got thinner, with less in it (and inevitably more ads)...

wouldnt worry about oil pump as they are supposed to always outlast rest of bottom end. Water pump is recommended, cambelt with tensioner and idler, and while engine and box are on bench you would be as well changing clutch. Drive shaft seal, downpipe sealing ring, pile of jubilee clips (dont...

Get them from bbperformancetuning as they are cheaper from them than from reno, same parts though, genuine

yeah broken cambelts will just sicken you, cause if you wait and it snaps, you will have more than just belt to change, and you will really not regret not having done it.

yeah clean it out, as it is usually the cause of erratic idling

Have you removed the radiator and front panel. With them removed the space freed up, transforms this job. To get radiator out, undo four bolts that hold slam panel on, pop the water hoses, and unbolt cooling fan from radiator. Leaving cooling fan where it is, you should be able to slide radiator...

take a voltmeter reading on a cold crank (i.e. while turning it over) if it drops quickly down past 11v then battery is kaput. Would not recommend anybody disconnect thier battery while engine is running, asking for trouble that, too many expensive electric components can be damaged like this...

Also make sure heat shield round the starter is intact as it is a required one

Yeah the connections on valver starters can get a bit dodgy, give it a wee rub with emery paper to restore a decent connection, although its an awkward son of a b**ch to get to without removing the downpipe first

have a spy at it yourself, as they are quite cheap to replace, it will be obvious if they are severly bent, take a few quick measurements and compare to other side. Lie underneath and have a look at where wishbone connect to subframe (these subframes are pretty weedy in reality) and make sure it...

You have three choices 1 scour the scrappys for one to fit, if you are really struggling get a manfiold and downpipe (will need both) from a 16v, if you aint managing to locate original willy ones (there different) 2 Get K-Tec stainless jobbie for £300 (actually ok price for stainless...

shade over 130 on my tod, a little less with company in car, the best stretch I have where I stay (Scottish Isle) is no more than 2 miles long so always run out of road, roads up here are all b roads, no carraigeways or motorways at all

I got a years and a half ban for racing on the public highway, charge was dangerous driving. Never ever told the insurance company about it on my return to the road, and got away with it. Not saying to do this, just saying you can get the better of them occasionally

My local reno dealer says to drill a single hole at front of both sills, as they fill with water otherwise, true or not, as sometimes I hear a sloshing, which I had previoulsy assumed was petrol tank, but I aint sure, anybody?

I used to get that funny noise as well, but it disapeared itself, leaving me a little perplexed as to where it was coming from

oil catch tank probably, didnt realise people put elaborate breathers on gearbox as such though, learn something new every day