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I thought I understood spacers, but now looking around I'm confused again :S :dapprove:. I know that above 15mm you're best using bolt-to-hub spacers, but as I'm looking below that it will be bolt-through with longer bolts (or studs) for me. Probably looking at 10mm. Dan@M.A.D. and FK spacers...

I'm looking into wheel stud conversion kits. Top two round here seem to be the Pure Motorsport kit and the K-Tec kit (available in two lengths). Both kits look pretty similar to me, apart from PMS using an allen key to fit the studs, and K-Tec studs being M12x1.5mm stepping-down to M12x1.25mm...

As the others said, there's two types of spacers. First type is the ones that your bolts/studs go through (and you'll probably need longer bolts/studs). Second type are ones that you bolt to the hub & then bolt the wheel to the spacer. General wisdom is that around 15mm is the crossover point...

Rung Admiral to enquire about a couple of modifications I'm thinking of doing. Processing any modification incurs a £17.50 admin charge, and so the bloke recommended grouping them together so you only pay the £17.50 once. 30mm lowering springs (Cooksport) - £2.50 until renewal 4pot brake...

Bump to give an answer... in this post martin182 fitted the 406 brembos. 16” 8-spoke non cup 182 wheel + 406 Brembo + 16mm spacer = 6mm clearance 16" five spoke 172 wheel + 406 Brembo + 16mm spacer = barely 4mm clearance So the two wheels are moreless the same as each other clearance wise...

Most of the miles on my 182 are from myself on the M4 and the original owner on the M25. Don't get as good MPG as those posted, but cruise at 80something.

Ignoring the price, what I really don't get is that they've been quite controversial with all the changes from the general 3dr NA Manual formula, which may or may not work,... but they aren't getting bums on seats to test drive and then give the hard sell. Do they actually want to sell any? :S

From what I've read TBH the only thing I have against it is the buying of software to unlock it for mapping by your trusted/local mapper of choice.

Better PhotoShop skills than me though!

Because fastroadcar. ​ Also doesn't help that the factory aren't (or definitely weren't) all that clued up. I remember when having the handling properly sorted* it turned out that the ride heights the factory claimed they'd set the car to were impossible to achieve in standard spec (had paid...

Bump with an FYI anyone finding this thread in a search: I have now seen both the SGS BMW part and also on SGS the part for the Clio Trophy. The BMW part comes with pin type fittings, whereas the Trophy part comes with band type fittings. The BMW pin fittings can be made to fit (brute force)...

Should still have logged it (I was able to get mine with an RSTuner after the light had gone out). ABS on its own will probably be a wheel sensor, and if it's got a few other lights too (ABS & ESP & Serv) it's normally the brake light switch.

​ This. Currently saving my pennies for an RS2 and some magical timing and mapping.

For a normal road car I'd not go for ITBs as I'd want to be sticking with stock ECU (cruise control etc) and also want to keep the aircon (so no supercharger). JMS RS2 Retimed standard Cams or 197 Cams (or even Catcams 438) depeding on how much money you want to chuck at it Mapping by people...

Use them on the Westfield for hillclimbs and sprints, they're great. They'll go off after a few laps of dry track, but have found them ok on a damp track. I'd guess that dry track in a heavy Clio would have them gone after a couple of laps. Save them for a damp day or if you do any sprints :).

End of this month.

In the boot should be a leather bag that the scissor jack of death is kept in. Inside should be a bit of polystyrene that the jack fits in, and also kept in a slot in the polystyrene should be a bit of wire that's designed to be the perfect shape for wheel cap removal. I only discovered it...

These Osram ones were meant to be pretty good IIRC? http://www.hids4u.co.uk/Osram-D2S-Upgrade-Cool-Blue-Intense-Bulb.html

<Thread Bump> What did the OP buy? I'm looking between Yoko AD08R (the new one) and Toyo R1R specifically for Wet Track. Don't care about dry as I've got other sets and another car. Also, how does the PS3 compare? They're my road tyres, and I could stick them on for a Wet Track if they're...

They'd stick it on the back of a truck and take you to a tyre place. I suppose you could even ring for one of those mobile tyre fitting services to come out to you.

Ah, shame. Matt's always good for a cuppa and a chat so I'll have pop over sometime. Good point. With the Zetecs/XEs in Westfields everyone has a favourite from DTA/Emerald/Gems/Omex/MegaSquirt/MBE (shoutout to SBD Motorsport)/etc. but you don't want to buy one and then find your pet mapper...

Most people have their personal favourites TBH. What's happening with M-Tech these days? Heard something about motorsport electronics IIRC.

I assume you're looking into TunerPro or similar? You're brave... I don't have a clue what I'm doing with ECUs! Have never touched OEM and only ever poked around with MBE Easimap on the Westfield after having it professionally mapped :S. Here are the RST and Cal that I pulled off a stock 182...

Blimey!

Was just reading Jalopnik article about F1 test days, it mentioned that Jenson Button drove a Clio V6 to the track when he was driving for Renault. Wonder where that car is now?

Mine seems to be pretty accurate :).

That's good for just an exhaust! Akrapovic do some nice stuff! Is a 200 exhaust the same as a 197 exhaust?

Hmm, like the others above I knew that you'll be able to do diagnostics on Car1 without buying another unlock code after having used it on Car2... but I thought to re-remap Car1 you'd be needing to buy a second unlock code.

ABS is what makes the front/rear balance work on these. If you remove the ABS fuse, you'll suddenly have way too much rear bias.

This thread should be stickied and new members made to read it from start to finish! (I did, but over several weeks :p).