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nope mate mine was made from shaddows not silhouettes here is a full size set up shot of how i made it. the final image i just photographed the shaddow on the wall. then did autolevels on PS which made it go a strange colour but i quite liked it as it looked a bit like a sunset.
I had a little play with some new software i bought called Action Essentials 2 for adobe after effects and basically its a massive stock video bundle of explosions, fire, glass, blood etc you name it, its there. anyways i put this together in only 30mins so its very rough around the edges and...
yes mate you will need to use shutter speed priority or full manual mode because if you put the shutter speed up higher than the flash sync speed the flash wont have fully fired before the image is captured depending on your camera it is normally 1/200 or 1/250 which is the fastest you can go
ive got some pioneer components and they are excellent, lovely and crisp on the cymbol sounds and work especially well when combined with the bass from a sub. ive got them from here, originally paying £69.99 for the the slightly older model (which are yellow components) which are equally as good...
cheers buddy, PS wise very little mate i shot them in RAW so just levels and colour balance
as for the lights im just using 2 x 420ex speedlights on stands and with wireless triggers (see clio photoshoot thread no1 page 2 for details mate)
Had another quick play with the flashes today, didnt have long to set the lights up and mess about with moving the car so only got a couple
cheers
James
just found this video and there is some pretty crazy sideways action soon followed by a black flag :nono:
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thanks mate
ive got a home studio kit so i used the stand from that with some clamps which mean you can fit the speedlight and an umbrella (although i didnt use the umbrellas on this shoot) and some wireless triggers
i got the clamps and triggers (and the home studio kit) from here...
its definately easier to leave the bumper on mate athough you might want to jack up the car to give you some more space to work. also if you start with putting a screw in the middle and working out then it should keep the splitter equal. then just trim the inch off each end.
no worries mate, yeah its pretty easy to fit but easier with two people if you havent already got the bumper off ( mine was off from being painted but it can be fitted whilst on the car), its simply a case of offering it up to the car, drill in a load of screw with washer on holding the splitter...
hey guys just thought i would show you my latest chop
original car
original background link
http://epicroadtrips.us/2007/summer/california/D4/web/hres/ert07CA_D4_30.JPG
what do you think ?
cheers
James
yeah its a meggy splitter mate, they are really flexible too so if you do hit anything they bend rather than shatter. also my car is a replica not a 182 unfortunately :), which means lowering yours 60mm may make it lower than mine as mine was higher to start with
you are correct buddy, i thought the security guard was going to get me to move but he said as i wasnt actually in the car park he couldnt lol - legend
thanks mate
thanks buddy thats great, the left side is natural sunlight which was really harsh, i then had a light on the front of the car and one the futher round near the passenger headlight.
good call about the polarizing filter i have actually got one so should have thought to use it. I shot the pics...
this is true and as the 20d and 10d are so similar in price you may be better going for the 20d as its noise controller is better too. having said that you dont loose out too much by not having EF-S fitment, most EF-s lenses tend to be the canon kit lenses which are all that great to start with...
^ ^
Buy that book i suggested it goes right from the basics alway to rigs and studio lighting for cars. its great.
Also i wouldnt recommend getting a bridge camera like that fuji you are much better of with a DSLR