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The one with the Green and brown wires is the oil level sensor, I used the one from a valver which has the level sensor and a temp sensor for the oil.

Why not give it a try, you can use megasquirt for the managment for cheapness, map it yourself using a laptop and a wideband. The only thing you going to have to do it drop the compression of the engine, the plastic manifold will take 20 psi of boost i rekon.

light flashing quickly - imobiliser locking key isnt working. light constant - non imobiliser fault/ usually battery is dead or the earth isnt good, also injection locking relay is not working properly.

I spend a whole afternoon with my mates gas analyser trying to get it to pass just for an experiment, failed misserably

If stopped by Vosa and you fail emissions you get a notice to put it right and signed by an MOT station. 172 wont pass with a decat ever.

how bad are they on dust?

No mate i live in tyldesley near leigh, i was picking a friend up from picadilly

Yeah every man and his dog has a black clio !

Spotted christopher salford - the cresent very nice motor i was bombing round the corner you were at the traffic lights.

Arnold shark gemini - how much did you stump up for that ?

bethere - they ring YOU when you have a problem brilliant service

Do they have bearings in them too?

As you have a mk1 find a decent place that are willing to lower the torsion bar .

It wont affect your no claims, it shouldnt increase your premium, some insurers do some dont.

When its doing this will it not rev to a certain speed either 3k or 4k?

If your on a budget go for the KMS kit includes all you need for about £1200

In the drivers side door arch its also on a sticker under the dash top also ask matt black nice and he'll give you the vin from the reg

ATF mate

Mike, i am trying to find out the ammount of teeth for a disked up 1.6 or DCI they should have the same as yours as they use the same front drive shafts. you could however get some made up as edde says.

I would say given the info you have provided that the ABS sensor is damaged or the connector in the fuse box is corroded or unpluged. The abs sensor is the kerbside one it feeds to the speedo, the connector is clipped to the left hand side inside the engine fuse box it has 3 wires one is yellow...

Re: 172 rear axle There are less teeth on the drums than on the disks therefore the abs computer goes into a safe mode and creates this pedal juddering. The computers confused. I got it on mine as the sensors on the front were broke, but as i have a full 172 conversion the front and rear rings...

Can you cycle through any trip computer functions but they just display crap? or does it just light up orange and doenst display anything?

Does the rev counter and other instrument lights work? what about mpg etc or is the whole display gone?

Re: 172 rear axle Ive done it - what problems are you having with the ABS? juddering brake pedal when braking?

It all tastes the same

You can do it yourself, you just need to raise the front of the car up both front wheels off the ground. When changing the bush you need to get a big bar on the wishbone and a jack or stand under it to compress the middle rubber bush.

182 ball joints are available seperate but they cost almost as much as a new arm inc ball joint.

Flash is hard to learn try a program called swish its much easier to get on with and produces simple effects very easily that you can export to an flash file.

the rears fit inbetween the rear beam and the chassis right under the car

If your not experienced with a rotory you can cause some bad damage on your paint.