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Yeah don't get me wrong Roy I wasn't saying thats a good thing being THAT sharp. At a guess I suppose its good for round town school kid runs etc, and reps who can't drive so it'd just be - slam on for roundabout in a hurry, do 10mph round the rounabout, then full throttle, slam on etc etc.

0-60 isn't great, but pulling from say 50 - 100 is good, just plant it in 4th and your away. A well driven 80bhp can keep with a 1.6 16v Clio.

Doubt its the actual nut on the alternator, they are usually there just to change the alternater pulley. From never doing a belt on an RSI, I'd say it looks like the alternater adjusts on that bracket to the right of the pic, prybar under it jobby to tension it? Have you tried a 13mm spanner...

Drive a brand new Megane/Scenic, I can put my clio on its nose but these take the piss. Imagine the full force of the Clio brakes stamping on the pedal, when you literally tap the brake in a Megane/Scenic it feels like they lock up.

What engine size is it? If its a 1.6 they can be a bit tricky to someone whos not a mechanic. How much experience have you got?

160 Bhp in a twin cammed DCI trafic van. Word.

Aren't RSIs done with a bolt pushing the alternator to tension the belt? Never done one mind so not 100% atall.

The sensors just keep feeding the ECU infomation, telling them what position the cam/cranks in, what its doing etc. I'd leave it and see if your light came back on.

If its only been to Renault dealership in its life, phone Renault Customer Services, haven't got there number to hand sorry.

How much treads it got on it? If its not a lot just keep pumping it up. Or, buy 2 Exalto 2's, and keep the other side as a spare? or just sell the one tyre?

Sounds like hes just erased the fault. If it was my car I'd leave it, might have just been a loose connection, and when hes been fiddling about sorted it even if it was by chance. Leave it and see if the light comes on. Most of the time, just removing the TDC sensor, giving it a good clean...

Standard cat? Or full magnex system? The standard cats can rattle a lot around 4k Check you haven't got a clamp going loose, or even rattling against the subframe - would be more of a knock though.

Its underneath the engine, at the back, near the Drivers side driveshaft. If your doing it on axle stands/in a driveway, easiest way is to take the drivers side from wheel off, and look straight in, you can't miss it.

What sort of work does it need? Has it been stood around for a while then? What williams is it in your Over the edge video aswell, same one? Looks quick lol

Yeah, so many people fall for these threads - they're good enough just to see the people getting worked up. Sebs on the windup again ;) Who cares anyway.

Would you fit a non-genuine battery to the Porsche Brian? ;) Shocking. Haha

Get the coils out (10mms) and get the spark plugs out (16mm spark plug socket) and get rid of any water in there. Could have got water into the electrics though, have you dried it all off? Get some WD40 around it aswell. Was the engine running/hot when you washed it? lol

He speaks the truth. For that price your looking at a decent DCI 65 Dynamique I'd say. The bloke wanted £4500 for mine (DCI 80 2003 Model, with xenons, CC) and 69k on the clock, told him the cambelt needed doing, few other little bits, and we agreed on £3800 after he had got a quote for all...

Same again, stripes this time, going through Clifton then down towards Eastlands. Was some time this evening, after 9pm I guess. Private plate starting in 'L20' Surely someone on here?

Giles that looks like its been polished ;) Easy enough with 2 people, although the car had only done about 5k so no rust/all the bolts virtually new, old one was easy to get out. That was on axle stands aswell.

Yes it is. But why should they fix it, and if it where to have a blowout they'd get the blame? Just because someone really wanted a garage to sort it, or couldn't afford another tyre.

Yeah, thats too close to the edge to be repaired. Any decent tyre place wouldn't repair that.

The connectors on the back of the light clusters on Mk2s are made of choclate. Try tightening the clips, aswell as the actual pins in the block plug itself.

Ballbag thats more likely to be your driveshaft cv joint or possibly shock tops. There isn't a bush that links the column to the rack.

Yeah they should drain it properly, replace the washer and replace the oil. You could be cheeky and ask for the old gear oil back. You should be able to tell the difference to engine oil, the stuff hums.

Speak to Mike @ Rentech on here he can give you a price, and he gets a lot of people going to him, and lots of people recommend him. As for the noise at the back check your shocks, common to go on the sports, they leak easy. Springs can fracture aswell, or even crack at the top or bottom.

Tyre shine would work a ph-lipping treat.

Just give it air con, wack some stickers on it, up the price by £5k and call it an R27.

All the Ph1 172 owners trying to convince themselves the Mk2 172 is a Chavs car! Pot calling the kettle black isnt it? The Ph1s the worst for it! Seriously cheap. Seb's 197 threads are funny just to see all the Mk2 owners jump on the wagon! As for the 197 itself, wait for the Cup version I'd say.

See G_F's thread here for taking the hub off, you don't need to completely remove the hub as Eddes described, but it explains how to remove the parts around it. Thats the ball joint, you can see the 2 bolts going downwards (Red dot), and the 16mm bolt going into the hub (Blue dot). In a...