Search results

Just drill the head of the screw and you will then get the disc off and after that you can probably get the rest of it out with mole grips/pliers. When refitting a new one either copper grease it up, or leave it off as really there isn't any need for them.

Agreed!!!

AstoN - How much are you after for that williams lump without the gearbox? PM me if you want.

Looks ace mate, exactly what it was needing imo.

http://www.clio16valver.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=541&highlight=torsion You will need to register but thats the guide most commonly used, doing it is a piece of piss usually tbh as long as they aren't seized.

If you are considering it I would definately speak to dave about his as you could probably get everything you need from his seeing as he's breaking it.

Most likely just some bent valves I would think, you won't know till you get the head off though. If they are bent you could hopefully just replace them and pop the head back on, but it all depends on whether they have damaged anything else when they bent so you really need to get the head off.

As said abouve the two are different because the angle between the flanges at either end is different, some of them come with an adjustable flange though so that you can use it on both iirc.

Jesus, am I the only one getting sick of the same points being made over and over about these inlet manifolds? Its fair enough the point being made from the thread starter but there seem to have been loads of these sort of threads recently either for/against them and it always turns into the...

Absolutely gutted for you mate, I know how much time and effort you put into that car and its such a shame it'll never quite have been finished to what you hoped it would be. :(

Usually just a breaker bar and the standard jack. The only time I would take more would really be if I was worried about something in particular or going to fix a mates car who has broken down - which has been known to happen, lol.

Was it "a 172 cup"? If so it belongs to a mate of a mate of mine. The guys called steve, I think he's from Balerno.

What model is it?

Also make sure you use a bit of wood or something between the jack and the sump when supporting the engine to spread the weight a bit.

Yup, you need the discs, pads, calipers and caliper carriers to do the conversion.

Not worth going for an RSi imo as theres not much difference in insurance. For 1500-2000 you could get yourseld a very good valver or possibly a hybrid. If I weren't going for a clio I would be looking at a CRX 1.6 Vtec as you could probably get one for that budget but it might not be a great...

There will be a fair difference in insurance tbh, best bet would be to just try a few quotes online to get an idea. What age are you?

Btw are you definately reading the gauge correctly? Its just that you could easily mis-read it because where the 100 is written on the dial you it can be a bit misleading. 90 degrees is exactly half way round the dial.

I'm 19 just now, at uni and work part time. I've got a Mk1 2.0 hybrid, this is the only pic I've got of it on the computer just now

That does seem high compared to mine but mine is a 2.0 and iirc the 2.0 has an oil cooler which the mk1 doesn't and I can't remember what sort of temps my old valver ran as it was hardly ever on the road. Try asking over on www.williamsclio.co.uk or www.clio16valver.co.uk as there will be more...

Just to add to the argument, the internals of my engine are standard but with a full exhaust system, induction kit and off the shelf chip it was rolling roaded at 172bhp and 174bhp at two different places. I'm not going to say one is quicker that the other outright, but I would say that a lot...

If you can tell us what sort of temperature its runnign we can tell you if its ok or not. My hybrid goes to about 100 degrees at the very highest which is only after driving it very hard. General driving about town is about 80 degrees and motorway driving it sits about 90 degrees.

Bingo, that will probably be the problem as I've heard of it happening loads of times before. I don't run a heatshield on mine but as I say I've heard of it happening before and as soon as a heat shield was put in the problem was sorted.

When I said to change the bottom end to a megane/willy one I meant to actually fit a megane/williams block to the valver head using all the standard willy/megane internals, i.e. buy a 2.0 block and fit the 1.8 head to it. You can't just use the 2.0 internals in the 1.8 block as the bore is...

Most things are the same, you can use a 2.0 bottom end with a valver head it you want. If you are just using a 2.0 bottom end you can also use a megane 2.0 engine as long as its an F7R, though you would have to change the flywheel to a valver/williams one. If you just use a williams engine you...

It was sold to bass_direct (don't know if he's on here?) and I think he sold it on again fairly recently iirc.

Hence why I said it will depend on the individual hybrid, I just made the statement that I would expect mine to easily beat one - I never claimed it was standard. The only mods done to mine are that its chipped, exhaust system and a custom induction kit. Thats why I said it will vary from one...

It will vary depending on how good the hybrid engine is very much as well, but I would expect a hybrid to be quicker, I know mine would definately beat one. A valver is a lot quicker to 60 than 8.9, and a hybrid even quicker. My hybrid is less than 6.5 to 60.

Theres a company in glasgow that I've heard are meant to be the dogs danglies, can't remember the name of the place at the moment though so thats not really much use, lol. Will post it up later if I remember.

They will fit, but you would be much better getting proper valver spring imo as the valver front end is much heavier and valvers run higher pundage springs.