Search results

Tools are normally easy. You just put 0000 in front of the six digit reference. There are some exceptions, mainly Nissan tools, but the above is correct for your needs as we ordered our 2015 set last week (we replace timing tools annually)

I can't help I'm afraid, Family time

Yawn... 0000150901 Next question please

Nope, we close until the 5th Jan on Saturday i'm afraid

That price is fully inclusive of VAT to and is using 100% genuine Renault parts

The Ford Zetec is easy, there setting tool is cracking and simple (unlike the Renault one).

Also, without going in to it too much (it's late and I can't be assed), when you tighten the fixings there is a torsional effect which travels thru the assembly. If you don't have the pulleys locked quite right or have the cams in the correct position, this forces the cam position to advance a...

It works almost perfectly on the iP6/Safari. I find the icons a bit too far apart on my 27" screen though at times

They've slowly but surely been making it shitter and shitter with every update. It went from being a fast & simple forum reader to something else that I don't think even the writers knew what it was in the end. Uninstalled and now I just use the sites directly.

Hell I can beat that without trying: £717including VAT and 100% genuine Renault parts

Because it's not timing belt driven and can be done on it's own without the removal of the timing belt. The newer F4 and K4 petrol, along with K9 and F9 diesels are timing belt driven and so should always be done.

All of our prices are here: http://www.diamondmotors.net/pricing/timing-belt-replacement/ Mick

Have you checked the PCB tracks to see if they have voltage/earth when turned on?

Yes, the airbags are all the same with one small variable: Cruise Control/non-Crusie Control

I'd check the bulbs unless it's the later 182 type unit which has SMD LED's on the PCB. It should illuminate at key/radio on regardless and then the intensity dips when the lighting circuit is active (and then becomes controlled by the interior level resistor) Mick

Birchdown will see you right

Nope, the recall only effected X65's with a specific fabrication number range. I don't know the exact details but I'm sure there's a DVLA/VOSA site that will tell you this.

I to dropped TT like a hot potatoe when the forum was updated.

I've just done a PDF which will be going on our website before the new year as I get annoyed when people ask me to justify my £240 service fee. Doors/boot & bonnet/sunroof mechs, lights, exhaust & engine mountings, suspension, tyres, coolant strength/condition, brake fluid condition/moisture...

If the recall "fix" has been applied to a vehicle then it should also have a sticker near the replacement catch instructing the owner/service agent that correct and regular maintenance of the mechanism is required and it IS YOUR responsibility from here on... you won't have a leg to stand on i'm...

Finally!!!

Yeah, that's 100% not right then and it only has to be slightly wrong to make a huge difference on these cars. Mick

It is entirely plausible that the timing isn't the issue BUT without having or seeing the car I can't say. We're here if you need help though Mick

Who did it? I'm not the kind to rip into someone as we are all capable of making a mistake but it's how you deal with the mistakes that sets you apart fr the rest. I'm just curious Birchdown would also be my shout but if you wanted a trip to Nottingham I would gladly look at it for you. Mick

Lovely car mate, well Jel but for me it would have to be in Mercury. Some folks are just stuck in the past when they say the 172 is better or raw but is it faster or any more practical than the EDC in the real world? Unlikely. Is it quicker around a track in the hands of the same driver...

That's easy, you take it from the triggers at the coils. You need two so grab one from cylinders 1/4 and another from 2/3. It's very simple to work out which wires you need as there are only two at each coil. You need the ones that don't show any voltage.

You will most likely need an extremely minor adjustment to your tracking/steering alignment, nothing more chap.

Easiest way to confirm/deny the theory would be to take the aux belt off and briefly run the vehicle when it's warm to see if the noise is there still. If it is then you've busted your own theory but if it's not then have a good tug on things like the alternator, water pump and PAS pump to see...

You need to use a stud lock NOT a bearing lock (as that shiz is structural).

Yeah they should be capable of locking the crank at TDC and then seeing if MOT1496 can be inserted in to the camshaft setting notches without issue.