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@NorthloopCup are you still building boxes bud? I have a spare JC5-130 here

Hi All, So I think I've just killed gearbox number three. Fifth, Third and Second are whining like hell and will pop out. This rebuilt box (local firm) has lasted about 15k? The last box (KTEC refurb unit) lasted about 15k miles also, that one would whine in all gears and eventually would pop...

Definitely not cheap mate, like everything else that people discover fits everything, what was a £15 new trim from VW about 15 years ago is now around £50 from memory? For what is essentially a flimsy bit of plastic

There was a modified one at Players 2016. Looked fairly smart imo, never found out if the owner was on here! ^click that and have a looksie @STEVE.M in the flesh mate the exclusive seems to have a lot more blue tones to the paint

Looks like a Seat Leon mk1 Cupra R splitter that chap, another one of those 'universal' fit sort of things like the Laguna splitter that can work on anything it seems!

I've also recently changed the subframe on mine, and renewed ALL the bushes with poweflex black, and i have the same knocking i think, Acceleration, braking, steering stationary. Also feels like something is almost sticky when pulling away? Not sure if we've got the same symptoms...

That, combined with a mirror frame, with a piece of plexi or glass tinted with mirror tint film? Whack the brightness right up on the LCD to overcome the tint and jobs a goodun? Just a thought

Cheers for organising this @T9 0LLE mate, was good to meet some new faces. Definitely looking forward to the next meet up :up:

The 181 is the corrected power. I believe this is because say you lived at high altitude your BHP would be lower than someone with identical tune at low altitude? At least that's the explanation i got, it balances the playing field

Sounds like a deal to me! I've got to get mine back out on the road yet, went over a curb in the snow, bent the subframe on the wishbone mounting. Decided if the subframe was coming off to be replaced I'd fit powerflex black all round, 182 manifold, 182-172 link pipe decat, new starter motor...

Mines got a cracked arse and dent in the boot from the posts at Britannia cafe car park in Norwich, dent in the rear arch, standard ruined bonnet, oh and it's recently been keyed down one side 😂

I'm sure it can't look as rough and abused as mine mate, bring it out!

I think that might have been more the problem mate 😂

I'll make a massive push to get the 172 fixed and out for this weekend then! Might want to stick mine on the end of the photos behind a bush or something, she ain't a looker :wink:

I had issues with the exhaust manifold knocking, this was resolved by fitting the powerflex yellow upper insert, evol Motorsport dogbone with purple road bushes but 'track' metal inserts, and a new OEM gearbox right hand mount

I guess some people not in the know with Clio's would call the ph1 a MK2 and a Ph2 a MK3, at least this has been my experience with mates who are well into their jap stuff and have a complete ignorance for anything else:tearsofjoy:

When I bought the first refurb unit it cost me about a fiver under a grand... Just for the box alone. I thought it would be a one time worth while investment but no. That went pop 15k later. Then this second one cost me £130 second hand then £500-600 refurb for all new bearings fitted. It can...

Once again if it makes you feel better I did around 6k miles on mine whining like an old dog before it dropped gears:tearsofjoy:

First replacement was mail order refurb unit from well known company. Second was sourced second hand and rebuilt local

If it makes you feel better, I'm in 2 gearboxes with a massive loss of oil daily 😂

Is that Focus ST orange? The Clio pulls it off better than the ford...

You've just one upped the in-house company works phones, cheers :wink:

Had mine ran up too... Standard Map, Fatty Induction, Ktec 2.5 Inch Supersport catback, nothing else really that I can imagine affecting power output. For some reason they've put KM/H rather than engine revs on the X-Axis... Fairly new local firm so who knows if it can be trusted.... And I know...

Forge must have a drinking problem, 2 bottle openers, and 2 Lanyards with bottle openers built in, they must like to party!! 😂

Had a bit of a thought on this one... If I disconnected the rack from the column, is there any free play left to right on the column? Don't want to disconnect it and bolt the rack to the subframe if I'm then stuck with the steering column having the same issue!

Hi All, I'm in the middle of replacing my subframe as I managed to bend the original one going over a curb in the snow. I've used the opportunity to upgrade all the front bushings to powerflex black and fit a new starter motor, fit s 182 manifold and link pipe. Now I've got the old subframe...

I have the same problem but my orange immobilizer light always goes out as if everything is fine, audible 'click' heard from under the dash when turning the key but no cranking, is this similar to yours mate? I've not found a solution as of yet other than wait it out or bump start...

Would definitely recommend holding a 300mm in your hands first if possible, some people find them way too small but I like the almost go kart feel it gives. 330mm is more common

Whatever you do make sure the wheel is genuine, seen enough mates with replica nardi's and sparco's fold them in half when it comes to accidents... Same with the snap off if you're going that route, the cheaper 'ebay' specials' wear out stupidly quick inducing a scary amount of play, wouldn't...

Really bad photo from before the cruise control switches were added, the addition of the snap-off boss does bring the wheel quite a bit closer to you but its optional obviously!