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Remove it whilst you deaden around that area, when you refit it simply silicone around the mounting & retaining clips to hold it firmly in place.....Try playing music before you refit the doorcards and add silicone to any area that its rattling at....

Which W3s are they, (need to know impedance your runnung at).....

As previously recommended, the best of the bunch, (all things considered), are the Vibe CBR active enclosures, they give deep hard punchy bass and seem to be about the best VFM wise.....

Ever heard the phrase, "New customers only"....... Well thats why it pays to swap at each renewal.......

System OFF.... 1, Remove all RCA leads from amps..... 2, Remove Negative terminal from Battery..... 3, Relocate Boot Earth.... 4, Reconnect Battery Negative Terminal.... 5, Test Amp 6, Double check system is OFF.... 7, Reconnect RCA leads and try again.....

Just checked previous connection post and like a jerk I failed to include amplifier earth connection..... Now rectified below...... Connection sequence from scratch..... 1, Remove battery negative terminal 2, Fit new power cable for boot to battery positive terminal, (with fuse fitted).... 3...

The access holes in the inner skin should be used to pass through deadening for the outer skin, (small easily manageable pieces are best), and the area being deadened should be warmed using a heat gun or good hair dryer set on hot..... When deadening the inner skin, you should cover these...

Connection sequence from scratch..... 1, Remove battery negative terminal 2, Fit new power cable for boot to battery positive terminal, (with fuse fitted).... 3, Go to boot.... 4, Connect all speakers to amplifiers 5, Connect all live feeds to amplifiers 6, Connect amplifier remote leads 7...

With the amp configured for 2ch use and wired as highlighted it will not run components as well.... For use in this manner refer to TA example.....

If you connect as I posted then 1 sub would be driven bridged off the front channels and the other would be driven bridged from the rear channels....You would only need 1 set of RCA leads in channels 1&2 as channels 3&4 would be fed internally..... You state the amp is '1ohm' stable, I assume...

1, Why???? 4, Why????

Oh, sorry mate, I thought you were using this amp to run 2 subs, (both bridged, 1 from front chs & 1 from rear chs), not a single sub & a set of stereo speakers.....Seem to recall you only had one set of sub RCA leads..... Follow TA advice then..... Just a thought, what impedance are your...

RCA leads into Ch 1 & Ch 2......LINE INPUT Phase shift, both central or zero degrees..... Input mode, 2 Channel..... Ch3 & Ch 4 set switch to INT...... High pass, Both set to min, (50hz) Crossovers, Both set to LP, (LOW)..... Subsonic, Depends on enclosure tuning.....(Sealed enclosure set to...

Nice to see everyone helping everyone..... So, earthing to a seat bracket, interesting.....I like the threaded hole in the rear panel..... @ OP, With regards wiring sequence for your amps.... This thread Post 2 ..... suggest you read full thread, it may prevent you from screwing something...

Noise with engine not running points to; 1, Speaker terminal shorting to the door skin..... 2, Speaker wire trapped or pinched again causing a short..... 3, Head unit earth track blown..... 4, Naff amp earth..... Try running system with sub RCA leads fitted, but only one front RCA fitted...

Could be a few things mate; 1, Noise present with ign on but engine NOT running??? YES/NO 2, Does tone or pitch of noise alter in accordance to engine speed??? YES/NO 3, Do you have a Pioneer head unit??? YES/NO 4, Is noise present in all channels??? TWEETER/MID/SUB or ALL 5, Location...

2kw peak, would equate to an rms figure anywhere between 500w to 1kw..... A stock charge circuit will usually take around 1kw rms to 1.5kw rms before serious issues come to light..... Without further info I can only make guesses, so the following is merely that, guesswork.... 1, Amp will only...

Where is Mr Dink???? Perfect response for him..... Interference isn't an issue, power supply is 'DC' not 'AC'.... If you pick up interference it will be due to either a faulty electrical item or a ground loop.....(unless your running RCAs from local 'pound shop')..... I often run power &...

Coaxials up front will tend to lower the soundstage, I would suggest sticking with components.... Coaxials in the rear correctly balanced to the front end can improve overall sound quality, they should be faded out to merely replicate the sound reflection you normally experience when listening...

Sounds like its fuse related mate..... check switched live has 12v with ign on.....

:lolup::cheers::lolup: Wouldn't get my audio in a Clio boot anyhow....

May look a little odd to you, but to me it looks looouuud and well designed.... I like threads like this, it gives an insight into whos doing what.... Just a shame I own a Cavalier.....

Cheap as chips adhesive draught excluder from B&Q is fine...... The double sided sticky stuff used to mount number plates is best, (comes on a roll, simply cut it to the width & length you require), stick it direct to the speaker, don't expose second sticky side, just screw the speaker in...

^^Now that response made me smile^^:cheers:

Examples of MDF baffles; (Not built or made by me, these were obviously made by a pro).... MDF baffle showing wooden dowels used for support during speaker pod building, (dowels simply hot glued in place..... Can't locate the full build thread at present, will post a link if I find it....

^^For ref only^^ 20W rms is more than enough to get a sensitive sub moving, strange but true.....

May help if you both actually include as a quote what narked you, seems just lately every thread I post in people get rather uppity over nothing....I do hope you both haven't taken issue with posts I've made in this thread....I couldn't take rejection 4 threads running, think I might have to...

Chill out mate, you may blow a gasket lol.....

Alpine 9855r.... OWNERS MANUAL check out 'digital crossover network' dvc 8" sub, each coil connected to each rear speaker output front component passive crossover connected to each front speaker output...then mids & tweeters connected as normal.... Headunit switched to 3way mode.... Digital...

Coupled with deadening and a sealed door cavity you will be surprised at the quality you will get as a result..... Installing front speakers in this fashion can increase a systems flexibility to the point where the sub can be removed & not really missed....ideal for those that occasionally...