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GENERAL ADVICE ON POWER ISSUES
do i need a powercap?
the general opinion held by 95% of the halfords, motorworld, motormania etc etc brigade is that for every 1000watts rms you require at least a 1 farad cap to avoid dimming lights, this is rubbish. by its very nature the power supply in any...
this is a copy of a thread i did on another forum, hope you find it useful.
a few basic questions answered whilst i'm not busy.
when installing amps;
1, how do i know what size power cable to run?
the answer in basic terms is;
add up the on board fuses on each amp you are going to use...
Thought I would do a post dedicated to Power Cables....
Seems a few on here have set idea's but quite possibly little experience....
There are two basic parameters used when working out which size cable you require;
1, The SAFETY angle, (bare minimum)...
2, The PERFORMANCE angle, (limits...
Did you bother reading my post....
^^Good for you:D^^
Strange, I thought thats what I said, but I pointed out its cheaper and easier to buy 0awg now and save on added cost and fitting time doing it all again....It's known as 'future proofing'....
The present amp delivers upto 300watts rms...
If only using the single amp then 4awg will be fine....
If any chance of future upgrades, (for example this amp driving fronts bridged or fronts & rears plus a beefy mono), then I would fit 0awg now to save doing it again later....
I wouldn't advise these for typical head unit running.....
The 'Kappa' range are 2ohm impedance, this can cause some head units to fail....
If they are to be ran via an external amp then they will be fine and perform as well as your installation will permit....
Installed correctly these will...
Some units operate on the ign, but will independantly operate without it being on also, its these units which cause batt drain if wired incorrectly....
My Becker comes on with ign and switches off with ign, but when parked up with ign off I can turn it on simply by pressing the power...
Just to point out that if the unit was faulty, then it wouldn't work.....
If its wired in incorrectly, or connected using the incorrect patch lead, then battery drain could be an issue.....
I would read the owners manual and double check its correctly wired before I went back to halfords...
This thread is like an electrical circuit, round & round the current flows lol...
When you connect your amp;
Speaker wires first---Protects output stage on some amps which have basically been poorly designed, (Blaupunkt 'Burning Desire' as an example)....simply put, no load=burnt out output...
Oh dear,
Just read a few posts and would have to agree, sound like a right obnoxious t**t in some posts don't I....
@ OP, Sorry for major thread hijack mate, hope my suggestions help....
@ agithegreat, Thanks for pointing out my apparent aloofness that seems to affect me when people dissagree...
All switching except, all courtesy lights, some radiator cooling fans, could go on but point is proven I believe....
Tell you what, GOOGLE changing car batteries or something and post me a few links to prove your correct....or try GOOGLE on how to jump start a car.....
With regards current...
Re: ** quite urgent ** rear seat belts taken out and wont go back in as theyre jammed
Lay the inertia reel flat on the floor and gently pull belt out whilst holding firmly in place....
If that fails, then hold it in a similar position to how its mounted in the car, (so mounting face is on a...
Sorry about previous post, should really try to be a little easier going....
Anyway.....
An electrical circuit is just that, a full circuit....
The battery +ve terminal is the source or start of the outward path, the current then travels through the circuit and back to the battery via the...
Would you, lets assume your reconnecting a cars battery, you've just sent a power surge through all the electrics and now need to replace a few expensive items, (esp if doing this on newer cars).....
Connect live first, then earth and surge is limited to earth terminal....
Most amplifiers...
I suppose you have a reason for this?? Care to share it??
Very unwise to recommend a connection sequence that can damage certain types of equipment, (For example, connecting & testing a Blaupunkt burning desire amp using your recommendation would result in a blown output stage)....
I will...
You may now need to upgrade your power supply...
Easiest way to work out what you require is;
1, Add up all onboard amplifier fusing....this will give approx max draw...
2, Fit correctly rated power cable....(Don't forget to ADD an extra battery to chassis earth to match your new power...
But will you be using an amp to drive them???
Will you also be using a sub or subs???
If no on both counts then imo you've wasted your money.....
If amping them and running without a sub, again imo a waste of money.....
If your amping them and running a sub, then they should be quite good...
Could be a few things;
1, Poor amp earth site/connection....(as previously suggested)...
2, Poor power supply, (Power cable too small)...
3, Loose connection in power feed...
4, Amp gain too high...
5, Load impedance too low...
I recieved my Policy renewal forms through today....
Not happy, my ins has gone up by about 33%, it takes the mickey....
Rang them up and created a stink, new policy had no ncp and higher excess....
Eventually agreed a deal though...
Cavalier 2ltr 16v, a few mods to engine (approx...
OK, the first point is this;
1, No head unit has the capability to run any speaker with significant amounts of bass....Bass reproduction requires speaker excursion, speaker excursion requires power, head unit amps only produce around 15w rms per channel, (when playing music its much less)...
On most after market units the 'Amp' remote lead is Blue or Blue/White stripe....
Some units have both, (one is remote turn on, one is electric aerial or amplified aerial supply).....
On Sony units the aerial feed generally turns on when the selected source is Radio, and turns off when the...
Suggest you actually have a word and find out exactly whats been done....
If she has paid out herself then just maybe she decided to cover the other repairs at the same time to save being off the road at a future date, (may as well have it all done in one go whilst she has a hire car)....it...
As far as I understand it;
1, You hit her car, informed her of this and came to some arrangement...
2, She went ahead and had her car fixed, (probably by order of her ins comp)...
3, Your now complaining that she had a Jag to drive around in, (prob supplied as stipulated in her ins cover)...
@ geesus69
Hope you haven't taken offence mate....
You would be suprised how many people consider running power & signal cables together through a car is bad practice....You would also be suprised at how difficult it is to buy unshielded RCA leads from recognised car audio outlets....
I once...
Are the 6x9s sharing the same space as the sub??
If so the 6x9 cone is acting in a similar way to a passive radiator, but is also being driven by its own voice coil....This practice promotes accelerated coil wear and internal heat build up...Try depressing the affected 6x9s cone and feeling for...
With regards speaker connections---this would simply alter the speaker phasing, (speakers recieve voltage through both +ve and -ve terminals, the +ve voltage pushes the cone outward, the -ve voltage pulls the cone inwards so giving a full range of movement)....
Reversing an amps polarity, (+ve...
Redo the amp earth, High resistance is probably making the amp earth via the RCA leads through the headunit....
You can check this by;
system switched off;
remove RCA leads from amp---start the car---switch system on and play as normal---If noise is present the fault lies with the amp or...
Old wives tale, the power supply in a car is DC not AC....
Possible causes;
1, You've inadvertently screwed your amplifier earth connection....
Result---High resistance promoting ground loop scenario....
To fix---Simply undo it, clean it up and redo it, ensure area is clean and connection is...