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The easiest way to prove it IMO would be to scope the wheel speed sensor outputs as a picture can speak a thousand words.
Normally the ABS/ESP program will not allow for a 2% difference in speeds as it has to interrupt and react to smaller percentages in extremely small timescales so this will...
New RSport rear spoiler arrived for the Megane today. Put it in yhe que for painting so will get it fitted sometime next week. Also priced up some nice 18" wheels for it, saw Renault wanted just over £300 each without tyres so sacked them off.
It doesn't see them as slipping, more likely it will see the front wheels rotational speed as 'X' and the rear wheel speed as 'Y' and so is flagging the wheel speed data as inconsistent to allow the ESP/ABS program to work.
The oil in No.4 is a common issue and most likely due to a leak. It shouldn't however cause a non start (in exceptional circumstances it'll cause missfires) so I'd say it's an electrical gremlin (blown fuse or popr connection somewhere) or a crank sensor issue
Possibly an adaptives issue but I'd say it's more likely to be something else like an air leak or electrical issue.
Try the above but if it doesn't work get a proper diagnostic session on it (not a code read session).
Not common but as above a certain failure in the end for all springs.
Replace as an axle pair with lowering springs. Personally I'd ditch the Apex as I think they're terrible but that's my opinion based on experience.
It's the chosen method of Renault to vary the inlet valves variable position. Some call them "Variators" but Renault call them " Dephasers".
There is no official service schedule on them but they are (or should be) inspected at every belt change and if any signs of movement or free play are...
Inspect the ring and make sure you have 44 teeth. Have seen a few of these recently after having non - gen replacement shafts fitted with 38 or 42 teeth which causes inconsistent speed readings.
I know, what a proper wrister eh! It's the first time in 4yrs I've taken Christmas off but I've had a load of calls today so I'm sure the inbox will need some pruning to so i may as well take an hour to sort folk out.
I'm having a rare bit of time off however emails will be tackled tomorrow chap so if it was sent via the website I'll have a reply for you by dinnertime tomorrow.
Mick
172 Cups don't alway have the bonnet open/close switch but it is 100% for this.
You also tend to find people just disconnect them and throw the switch away when a faulty switch causes false triggers for example.
I've got 421's (some say identical to 423's) and I love them and what they've done to my mildly modified track toy. Power from 4k to the limiter has no let up but I also run an RS2 inlet but I've seen some great looking graphs on standard inlets to.
I personally won't ever quote over the phone/forum unless it's for a fixed price item such as timing belts.
I always ask people to email via the website so every request for info is stored. My system automatically looks up duplicate plates and customer details to so I can see who is a...
I've always been sub £400 for both genuine belt kits only and £590 with dephaser and oik/filter change... it's nothing new really
Edit:
http://www.diamondmotors.net/pricing/fixed-price-servicing-timing-belts
Nagh, I can spot tight fisted time wasters Chi we get calls from them daily "just asking for advise" which translates to "will you tell me how to do this myself for free" then they're always the first to plead poverty when their car breaks.
Do it... or don't, it's your car but don't come crying if a tensioner fails or the belt snaps.
Remember that the parts are subject to stress from temperature and pressure even when the vehicle is stood both off and at idle speeds.
As long as it meets relevant standards don't fall for the brand rubbish. Also there's nothing wrong with using a 10w/40 semi-synth as long as you don't try and make it last 12-18k between service intervals.