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You personally run on Dunlop don't you Tony?

Yep, it's big in European countries where performance mods are not allowed in any shape or form. Kits, paint and interior is all they're allowed to play with and I don't think it'll be too long before they try it here to in some shape or legislative form.

No you will be okay unless someone has used silicon already. Yeah mine to but he's not said anything about it being a pig to drive so it may be something else.

Hard to say for sure without seeing I'm afraid but a good place to start would be check the plug wells aren't full of water/oil. After this its likely to be an injector, coil, plug or H02 sensor issue which you will need help with to pin point.

The fuse box is a good place to start looking for it. You'll find its location in the passenger side of the dash.

Was this at Blyton recently? It's not to my taste either with those wheels but it's your car so enjoy it Bradd3rz

The X65 Cup racers also retained VVC as they were essentially Stock engines but with some very minor fettling/blue printing and a standalone engine management.

Check your fuse... Welcome btw

"You built a badass pussay wagon... out of a Renault Espace!?! - Great Scott!"

I've woken up in 1993!

What I am trying to work out is if something is taking power from a circuit it's not rated for and that is what maybe causing F21 to pop. Unfortunately I am not in the workshop at the minute so I don't have access to any of my information but from memory F21 powers a few things inside the cabin...

Yes, I'm obviously not driving it hard enough lol

Don't run it on easi-start in an enclosed space. The fumes are REALLY BAD FOR YOU so make sure you are well ventilated or else someone will be finding you on the floor!

Did you just use the priming bulb and have you cracked the fuel lines at the injector whilst cranking? ^^ THIS ^^

I rate them but because they allow me to brake progressively/normally for longer meaning I can stay out and burn more fuel or if I need to go hard on I have the option. Brakes are like tyres though in that setups and "feel" is entirely personal but this works great for me.

I know you said "with you" but mine are still going strong Simon but you did absolutely crucify yours to be fair. I've done 5 full on days now and not half way thru them yet. To me it's £150 for pads that work for me on standard discs and setup vs spending close on £1k for something better. A...

I was guilty of following the masses with a set and they didn't last a day ata Bedford and i'm no sbridgey As a road pad they are fine but they seem to be rated as a track pad when they're not. For the money there is far better out there for less. The M1144 being one but even the standard...

I suspect air in the fuel system at the minute myself but the FTS is becoming a common one as the vehicles get older.

I help where i can, then hit em with the hard sell lol

Deffo heat related damage pictured above but I am also a huge hater of the DS2500 (love my DS3000's though).

Does it run on something like easi-start when sprayed into the inlet? Don't run it and run it on this stuff as you may damage the engine. This test is purely to see if it's a fuel issue.

Yep that's the one. It could also be an injector seal or even the inlet itself. You really need to start spraying stuff and looking for leaks

It would be a shame to break it as there are worse cars out there. Maybe my workshop is like the old Grand Theft Auto and he car goes in a garage, the shutters roll down and that's it - fixed. I'm sure a new circlip will see you right again and as long as there's no damage to the casing it...

Check the inlet track for any signs of leaks. The ATS and MAP sensor would be my first points to check.

I'm in a similar position myself as I had no drive after chasing Chi hard at Blyton. Coasted off track and in to the pits so the session wasn't shut down (because hero) and had no drive. Got it loaded on a truck with a winch then home and the fecker reversed off the flatbed (it also had 1 thru 5...

Any movement = replacement required im afraid. Sometimes it is just one of those things that happens. I've seen the K4M dephaser units fail after 18 months before but honesty, never a 172/182 unit.

Magnet would be my first choice yes. It will have been pushed out so that limits the space which it can fall in to. As for the eBay item I can't say for sure as I've never seen one but I guess it could as it's effectively what Renault did to the later ph2 boxes. Enjoy drilling the diff in-situ...

Yep, circlip has gone pop and it will be hiding inside somewhere in at least two bits. The bolt in diff could be used yes but it's a box rebuild job. What you need to check on your existing box is for damage in two places: 1 - the slot that the circlip goes into. Make sure the edges are not...

Any modifications or additional electrical consumers in the car?

Could be anything really chap, something mechanical but most likely electrical. Honestly, I'd advise a proper data logging session on a proper diagnostic rig rather than a code reading session to find out what's actually wrong.