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Well for completeness ... in case someone comes back to this thread .... The car if fixed for the price of an inlet manifold gasket !!! seems there was a small leak, that was enough to confuse the electronics at tick-over with no load ...... IF you have the same problem it's a lot cheaper to...

Well for completeness ... in case someone comes back to this thread .... The car if fixed for the price of an inlet manifold gasket !!! seems there was a small leak, that was enough to confuse the electronics at tick-over with no load ...... IF you have the same problem it's a lot cheaper to...

williams-ant said: I did, first thing I did. As above though, one of the new injectors that I fitted turned out to be faulty! [/QUOTE nice one wish it was that easy for mine ..... checked new and old injectors ... all showing 15+/-0.5 ohms

I'm thinking the same ..... Is a Renault agent the best place (Renault tools) or a specialist tuning garage ??

@ Williams-ant sounds like we're in the same boat ..... and sinking without a paddle :(

@ William84 OK something new to look at :) wiring is mostly heavily protected under plastic conduit ..... nothing obvious but I will look again more closely crankshaft sensor... hmmm well it starts first time every time and runs very well ...... so seems a very very long shot to me ... but again...

@ Bashracing ....... "old parts cannon" = ???

@ Daz yes ... I have checked and swapped around the plugs (fairly new) several times !?!?

@ Bashracing ....... I have checked the compression it's 180/195/180/180 for 1,2,3,4 ..... tested with all plugs out running engine on starter motor until the gauge maxes out I have checked and swapped around the plugs (fairly new) I have changed the coil for new I have changed the HT leads for...

Done it .... yeaahhh ... with a pipe spanner :) swapped over the two O2 sensors and no change ... still misfire cylinder 1 :( :(

Thanks for the tips ..... but my 22mm spanner is not slipping off ..... it's just not budging anything either .... being limited to garage floor with axle stands means is't impossible to get anything longer than 50cm on them ...... I'll try the wire brush and leaving the wd40 to soak overnight...

Back on it again this weekend ...... so ... after changing all four fuel injectors for new (no improvement) ... I tried the following ..... 1. Disconnected two sensors on the front of the engine see photo ..... I assume the one top right (red/white leads) is the knock sensor with very awkward...

Back on it again this weekend ...... so ... 1. Disconnected two sensors on the front of the engine see photo ..... I assume the one top right (red/white leads) is the knock sensor with very awkward cable connector and the other left of oil filter with only one lead is ???? and I did not touch...

No ... are they likely to give a missfire warning ??? where is the knock sensor ??

Hi sounds like you are having the same problem as me on my 182 - Loads of comments saying change the injectors, which does seem to work in many cases ... but not for me .... 4 new injectors, 4 new HT leads, new coil and still the OBD reports missfire on cylinder 1 ... which is the gearbox end...

Hello Darren, So two more new injectors finally arrived and despite my greatest hope ..... there is no change .... so 4x new injectors, 4x new HT leads, new coil, spark plugs <10Kmiles and checked and swapped around, compression tested (seems ok to me) ... still getting message miss-fire on...

Arran - good to hear you got it fixed :) ..... do you know it was actually the cylinder '1' injector that was failing ????

Darren ... I changed two injectors for new on cylinder 1 & 2 and still get the engine warning message for cylinder '1' ... is it possible that the injector for cylinder 3 or 4 could give the same message ..... i.e. message is for cylinder '1' whichever the injector is failing ??

Hello, It's been about a 18mths since I finished a winter of rebuilding the top end on my 2005 182 cup. I was relieved when it fired up instantly first time yeaaahhhh! thanks for all the help with that BTW :o) and all was well, fun was had all around ... until ...... After about a year and 12K...

hit the rev limiter for the first time since the rebuild ....... no smoke and no bits flying out the back, just change gear and away it goes again :)

it's just a question of dog'd determination to still with it ….. glad you got there :) … now for the aux belt (harder to do IMO)

you might want to check that the pulley locking tool it NOT engaged in the exhaust pulley ... looks very close in the photo .... you could even take the whole thing off to be sure it's not causing any issues...

If you torque anything up before then it's for sure that nothing is going to turn ..... you've got your TDC pin in and the cam-alignment tool in.... plus ... I hope ... that wonderfully expensive pulley locking tool ....

using the old dephaser oil cap will allow you to use a tool/spanner on the dephaser pulley WITHOUT actually tightening the pulley i.e. so it remains free from the cam-shaft ... it's a neat idea .... but you should NOT need to do this ... the thee pulleys should be free to move and thus the cam-belt

Hello, I have just finished a full head recon on mine ..... so had to mess with torquing the two camshaft pulleys and the crankshaft pulley along with the belt tensioning and cam alignment. 1. set all the alignment tools & TDC pin .... set the tensioner .... Do NOT tighten the pulleys 2. turn...

should get some 'cup' back seats .... they weigh almost nothing ..... those look like trophy seats ???

top tip 4 : use feeler gauges in the cam alignment tool if you just can quite get it set right top tip 5 : put the lower plastic cam belt cover on after changing the lower pulley but BEFORE putting on the cam belt and crankshaft pulley .. you can thread the cam belt through the cover when in...

nice car mate ;)

If anyone has the same question I found out where these come from …… they are part of the aux belt tensioner ….. new one comes with them so these can be retired :o)