Search results

sweet

if you get the engine out of the same phase clio as yours it will fit but youll need everything from under the bonnet inc the engine wiring loom. because of the immobiliser you will also need the plip keys and the ucbic (clio 2 phase 1) or the uch (clio 2 phase 2)

18m socket. if its tight dont use a multispline socket as youll round the bolt off. the torx screws might be 30 torx but the most commen size is 40 torx. if their tight try an impact screwdriver first and if that fails just drill the heads off.

you need the sheild there. apart from the fact it will heat up the brake fluid which will affect your brake pedal if the fluid boils it also causes your throttle and clutch cables to melt to the outer casings. changed plenty of cables because the heat sheilds been missing and the cables just...

^^^^remember to warm up the engine first as the thermostat isnt supposed to open to about 80c

its not the early rev limiter when the engines not fully hot then? maybe a faulty ing coil,when does the fault appear?(what rpm)

its only worth putting it in every so often. doubtful if you notice any difference.

try bridging out the radiator fan switch connector-does the fan work? did it overheat due to all the water leaking out? have a look for any leaks.

yes the hillpower pipe isnt restrictive

there is a gold bracket on the b pillar (the same pillar your seatbelts on). it is on the b pillar about halfway up on the part that the door covers up when shut.it is held in place by two torx screws (star shape looking things). slacken the torx bolts off and the bracket can be moved in or out...

yes ok. ill clear my pms so you can send me your phone number.

hill power hose is defo cheaper than that.

^^^possibly but the dealer might say he has broke it. worth a try though.

the main shaft part of the driveshaft should be straight.

why not? its quite a bit fatter than the standard pipe so used with an ik kit it might do something i would have thought

never had any problems with mine after i spent a bit of time adjusting it. what type of exhaust clamp have they used? the magnex supplied one is quite thin so it doesnt hit the rear axle.

only ever come across beru heater plugs before. a spark plug is a simple thing so just about any make will do in a normal engine.

aye costs would be loads. the abs valve block is about £300 for a start.

as eddie says i think the ratios are very slightly different. changing 5th gear isnt that bad as its not a complete strip down due to 5th being outside the main gearbox casing. its behind the metal end casing. the casing is held on by three 13m bolts.

was it wet? eg-water on the disc surface

would probably fit

you would probably need a joining sleeve but other than that then its easy enough to change.

there is a little cut out on the underside of the repeator so you can prise them out with a small flat blade screwdriver.

there are rubber bump stops that sit on the shocker shaft(part of the protective covers/gaitors) but at a 30mm drop you dont need to touch them.

if its a clio 2 then most likely the transponder key or the reciever ring at fault. have had a few wiring faults with engine looms on them as well. your dealer should only charge you a set diagnostic fee to have a quick look with clip.

my mate had 17s and a 40mm drop. it rubbed on the front inner arches near where the bumper bolts on. do as mike says and get the ebiach springs which only lower about 20mm.

yes it will fit. get a 5 speed box off a later 1.2 and its a straight swap. you will need the gearstick/linkage as well.

proper heavy. took me and two other mates to leave a completly built up engine/gearbox assembly off my workbench.

yes k-tec do up to 60m lowering spring for clio 2 models other than the 172

the cat to manifold bolts are a bit tricky to get on but not to bad. exhaust needs to be cold as the cat gets very hot and you need to get your hands in there.