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If your trailering and competing I'd get the gripper with something like a 4.3 final and the shorter 5th gear.
Then get the 422 cams, they don't lose much bottom end but make more at the top than the 421.
One of the best things I did to mine was change the final drive from 3.89 to 4.07. If you can get hold of a good 172 cup gearbox its really worth doing whilst everything else is out.
As is a Quaife diff but that's at least £1200 including a rebuild.
422 and 423 need aftermarket management, stronger valve springs and bigger reliefs in the pistons. So I assumer you have these things when you say the specs would suit.
From data I've seen if you want peak around 7.8k rpm you want the 423s but thy lose out to the 421s below 6krpm. I guess the...
I've used them before on the road, they're pretty good. Not used them on track but I've heard reports of them standing up to abuse well and not going off. They use them for drifting before they stay so predictable but with a smoking additive
438s and Pipers are more or less the same and give very, very similar gains on the same rolling roads. That's why I said Pipers, saves £250 on the cams to go towards the mapping
The rs tuner runs the piper cams perfectly. The afrs are spot on. What you don't get is the extra spark advance and fuel to go with it.
It'll work fine until you get it remapped properly.
Could you open up the holes on the spacers to match the bodies? As far as I can tell from Jenvey drawings the only difference is the fact that the bodies have 6.5mm holes and the spacers have 5mm holes.
Am I missing something? The trumpets fit the spacers, the trumpets fit the DTH bodies, yet the spacers don't fit the bodies.
I know the hole diameter is different but the hole spacing is the same.
Its a nice lazy road car. That's all. Gearbox is good. Keeps a better balance on changes and is quicker than manual.
Not special enough to buy one as a second car, would make a nice daily to abuse though. More so than the Fiesta ST
I don't mind removing door cards to get the door bars in when I need them and I'd rather cut the dash to have the cage behind it.
I just can't do without seatbelts.
The Safety Devices one is perfect except it's a dash dodger. But I know you can keep all the trim.
The Oreca one looks close in places too. The light in the roof would have to go as well as the grab handles but not too bothered about them.
I don't want to lose plastic trim and seatbelts.
I was looking at the CL3 one on here. I'd add door bars to it...
Ahh nice easy job then! Good news
I swap my track seats over the week before track days, I'm looking to fit a cage with removable door bars so I can also swap the fibreglass doors over at the same time. I'll have them as track doors, no mechanisms, fixed mirrors and sliders :)
It's all coming...
It was the bottom Oreca one I was looking at. Cheap and cheerful and I can get it welded and painted for beer money.
I wanted to know if the door bars would clear the trim. I don't mind cutting the dash as I've had a 'dash-dodger' cage before and it was a pain having to remove it to get the...