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Have you got the printout of before and after the 4-2-1?

I'll get the PMS one then I think.

Tried my aircon yesterday and it was warmer than outside. Also the aircon radiator doesn't look the best which is a bit disappointing so I'm thinking of removing it all. There's a cup setup that Mitch is selling. The pure motorsport kit and another method of just replacing the compressor with...

Re: Ph1 172 The current silver side strips are a bit tatty so I bought some standard black ones to replace them with. Freshend them up with some Halfords bumper paint. Still a bit undecided between silver and black

Undo the 14mm nut and bolt where the arb connects to the droplink. Move it to the next hole in the arb. Tighten it back up :) 5 minute job which you can do without raising the car

I've also changed from 195 to 205 and found the 205 a huge improvement...

I'd happily hand over 10k for that. Shame it needs to go on the house instead.

Re: Ph1 172 Did a remap on it about 10 days ago. Definitely noticing the difference, a little more torque down low so it feels smoother all the way to the much higher redline. Got the Whiteline RARB on today. Back end feels a bit more planted. Its set to soft right now but I might set it to...

I got some plain black side strips for my Ph1 172 off here but I opened them up today and found they are different to my current ones. The top strip is one of my current ones and the bottom is what I've received. As you can see there's nothing to fix it to the car.... Also on one of them it...

The release bearing can differ can't it? 182 and later 172 ones are hydraulic and early are cable?

get the FK and use the rest of the money to get the alignment setup

Clean the threads above, raise them, clean the threads below and then all should be well again :)

Should be free, no? Maybe chancing it to see if you'd pay or not.

Short term over the next 18 months or so not very far as its a 2nd car my wife is using too. After that it depends on circumstances but maybe a dedicated track car. It would be nice to know how much can be saved on the aircon, seats, windows, sound deadening, tar pads, going to EPAS, etc. I...

I'm interested to know where and how much weight can be taken from a Ph1 172. Is there a thread knocking around or has it been documented at all?

Having driven a few cars with lightweight flywheels with standard clutches and paddle clutches and standard flywheels with standard and paddle clutches I'd say it was the clutch rather than the flywheel that makes it jerky

What clutch is that with?

Would this not cause over braking on the rear?

There's a lot worse cars out there if you think the Clio is expensive to maintain! Fords are generally cheap though :) The Mk1 Focus RS is much cheaper to maintain than a Clio RS.

So there's no 60-2 timing marks on there?

Is there any way of me finding out what ratios the JB3 196 gearbox has? I've got the gearbox guide and the .exe file knocking around but neither of them specify this box.

I've got the same issue on the passenger door. I'm undecided what to do as I was going to get a bit of bodywork sorted whether to get it touched up or just get another door.

I would have thought at that level it would be worth changing to the 197 inlet manifold.

The standard one is fairly light already at 5kg. The billet one only saves 2kg. You don't gain much in terms of acceleration but it helps a little with engine braking.

I'm planning my gearbox change soon if all goes well and I thought whilst I'm at it I may as well get a billet flywheel. Otherwise I'll have to buy a spare anyway and get it re-faced. What is available? The one from ktec at £297 is a bit steep.

Re: Ph1 172 Took it out for a good drive on Saturday, still very impressed with the cooksport springs on the cup shocks and wishbones. Only issue is the tyres catching the arch liners on full lock. Then gave it a polish and wax. The springs have settled a bit more now too.

Maybe worth it for a weight saving and extra space but not so much a power gaining modification. You're going to drive around track with the AC on, well you might! But the AC only engages when is it activated, otherwise the pulley is just like an idler pulley. There's quite a few components to...

I've got a nearly new Renault engine mount and powerflex dogbone. Not sure on the gearbox mount but look nearly new too. No vibrations at all but I can feel the engine and box moving around as the car does get driven properly. I've noticed the Ktec mounts at £200 for the pair. I was wondering...

I've just changed my knackered OEM dogbone for a polybushed one and its a massive improvement. No vibrations at all. There is still plenty of movement from the engine and gearbox. Enough for me to consider up-rating the other mounts.

Is changing 5th gear on it's own fairly easy on the JB/JC boxes? And if so is there any difference between the parts on the JB and JC 5th?