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Yes, Live data is your friend... faults like this are nigh on impossible to fix without seeing whats happening (or not happening) as far as the ECU is concerned. Without it you will be guessing which gets expensive unless you're lucky.

Easy peasey... just need to scope the pedal tracks and use CLIP to understand the actual problem and go from there. As long as its not a 172 Cup #f'n things

I got your email btw Perry. Will reply in the morning because right now, I'm feeling a bit pissed (drunken kind)

I personally hate "p codes" as they're meanings are generic... and useless! Sounds like you've got a throttle position fault which is being caused by a difference between the two pedal track values. You are going to need the help of someone with some equipment to see exactly what's occuring to...

Not without seeing it actually doing it, no

It gets loads of people (including myself when I first did the belts on a 2008 van 6 months ago). I said to the customer that there's an issue with his door expecting him to acknowledge it and he was shocked... then showed me :o

Press and hold unlock button on the remote... First few caught me out to (silly anti-jacking)

I hate that nylock that comes with it and use the standard combo nut as it looks like it'll pull thru the hole if not. Glad you like it though Paul, that car is still awesome to see.

ODB2 won't tell you anything but it is most likely going to be a reluctor ring causing the false trigger. Get under the car and visually inspect each ring looking for cracks in the rings structure. Find and replace exercise

If you must use/retain standard management then you need an RS2.

They catch loads of people out mate as they don't go with a bang, more like a "pop". There are people on eBay that can remove the crash data for you for around £25 or you can use a non-crashed computer from another RS which may need CLIP to setup if the configs are slightly different. Mick

I agree with Edges Kirsty, sounds like you've got a proper nasty little gremlin there. Pop over and I'll gladly sort that for you. www.diamondmotors.co.uk Mick

Why didn't you just unbolt A/C compressor and PAS pump from the block and leave it all hanging? Saves time, money and helps to get the engine out easier

Afraid not, Daddy needs a sensible car so I'm having a Megane III tCe (the 2.0t '180) and then I'm going to light a rocket up my arse and get the R19 rebuilt. I'm really sad to say the Clio must go as I love it but facts are facts... a family car is needed and I'm not willing to sell my R19.

Start with diagnostics... Its not always a waste of cash. Knowing what is actually wrong is half the battle.

Yellow pages > mobile A/C engineer > £45

That's the UCH's coded line fuse... Common.

testing a simple wiring fault but ideally the sensors need function testing before replacing anything.

Unplugging the CTS will also force the fan to startup but turning on the A/C (if it's working/fitted) will do the same.

He's ginger but not a pikey

Check that aux tensioner still moves on the pivot if not replacing the full kit ;-)

Bloody Bosch code is less than useless. If you've had a prang, no matter the force yet tje SRS and SERV light is on then you habe most likely had a deployment I'm afraid (check your seat belt anchors are both the same length). If these have gone then the computer is locked pending either full...

Wrong alternator, dodgy charge circuitry or a poor exciter live to the unit itself are possibles. A/C equiped cars are normally 110A units (Valeo AI300V13) Volt meter confirming the alternator is in fact failing to deliver charge? If so, confirm 12v at the exciter wire and if that's good send...

Blue is oil in the combustion chamber so most likely cause is going to be piston rings I'm afraid to say. Mick

Decided to put it back to standard and sell up

Not really, it sounds like you have an issue with your UCH rather than with your alarm itself. It performs many body related functions of which alarm and door management are ones. Some of the early ph2 units were standalone (meaning they could simply be cut) but the later ones from '03 on...

Not that bad anymore... £524 on a FF and £450 on a Cup with us using genuine renault parts. Mick

See what your tensioner is like (i know some places just soak them in WD40 and whack a new belt on to save money when doing belt changes but thats a dangerous game IMO) but bare minimum is a new aux belt. Mick

Everytime the aux belt is removed it needs to be changed. If the tensioner is siezed (it can happen even in 5months if the liner isn't in place) then that also needs replacing. You can do it without if you want but if the aux run fails it will take your camshaft timing with it so make a decision.

Easy enough but ideally needs a new aux belt/kit