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He doesn't have to but I prefer a controlled relay to switch a battery feed rather than a switch of unknown spec

No its an ignition controlled live. If you are adamant that you must use these when the keys are out (why I won't understand) then you will need a battery sourced live but I'd urge the use of a relay rather than it going thru a switch.

That's the basic circuit yes but I wouldn't wire the switched live from the battery directly, rather pinch it from an interior feed such as the cig lighter and add a small fuse to that (5A).

Most likely to be a UCH fault due to water ingress i'm afraid to say... new UCH time

You said the leak is clearly coming from the filter not the switch so its unlikely to be the switch. Something is obviously wrong though so start with measuring the actual oil pressure to make sure its not a freaky oump oushing 10Bar at 3k rpm and if that's within tollerence there's either a...

I assume you are using a genuine *913 oil filter? If its deffo the filter then check the thread on the block to make sure its not damaged (and so not letting the filter sit square... replace if required). Also check there is no damage to the block or the mating face.

There is no one single master schematic that shows all of this as the cars just aren't wired like its 1995 anymore. Each item you have listed is on its own circuit and so has its own schematic. I will warn you now though, removal of some circuits you have listed will result in the CAN Bus...

Bumper off then x4 screws per light unit. Do not forget the little one holding the light to the wing or else you will crack the wing... you have been warned lolz

I don't know but I did see Dave looking rather sheepish around a box recently lol

Its at the very top of the gearbox over the flywheel. On that engine it will be well hidden under the stat housing and air box though so you are going to have to do some work to get at it.

Only real way to be sure is plug it in for diags chap. Mick

Has someone tried to reuse it do you think? I see a few that have been tapped out with a drive (which bends them) so they can be used again.

Sounds like lack of compression then... valves went kerazzy ass on the pistons and got b**ch smacked hard. Head off, new valves and possibly guides to followed by new belts (or replace engine and get belts done on that). Mick

You see the pin you have in the pad retaining bar? Its not supposed to be that side ;-) After a good few pedal presses that retaining bar will proberbly fall out.

Have you tried to restart it? Does it run (in amy fashion) or does it sound like there's a general loss of compression?

Remember eBay is generally full of idiots and not everyone is aware of the refurbished products that Apple sell.

I know what you are saying thoigh but Its a gamble sometimes no matter where you go as the larger franchise chains can be more criminal than the small backstreet garages at times. I try to be fair and if my work damages your car then I dig deep. If a part I fit fails then its comes to me...

Courtesy car insurance was not cheap when I looked in to it about 5 months ago not to mention i dont like lending someone a car so they can see how fast it goes in 1st and reverse whilst i treat their car with respect. Regarding warranty issues though (and I cannot speak for other specialists)...

I sold mine on ebay recently for £310. I believe Apple sell them refurbished for around £300 these days

Re: Tyres!!Yoko c-drive, conti contacts, goodyear efficient grip, or michy pilot exal PE2 out of those for me also but they are getting harder to find now as they've been replaced witht hw PS3 (as above).

I think you read WAY too much into that reply then.

New waterpump pump and aux kit won't be a mahoosive bill really... email me if you want a price. Mick

That's why you shouldn't go all guns blazing stating he has ballsed it up. Simply ask him to investigate the issue as it wasn't there before the belt change. It may be that something isn't plugged in... I've been guilty of this before. It may also be the timing has slipped for one reason or...

This... messing yourself will invalidate any warranty you have and if he's as reputable as you say he'll do all he can to make sure you are happy and that the car is right.

They are the same computer but there configurations are different. You can use another unit from another Clio II BUT you will need someone (like me) who can set it up for the equipment in your car (unless you buy one from another car exactly like yours

Basically take the plugs out and rotate the engine to TDC on cylinders 1 & 4. Then insert tye crank pin and camshaft locking tool. It should all slot in without any real drama.

I'd honestly say start by finding yourself a reputable Renault specialist close by and seek their advice as some garages are good but most are scarily bad. Experience is everything with these cars... ... if it were one of my cars I'd start with a quick road test to rule out a clutch/brake fault...

Personally, and no offence to your mechanic, unless there's something obviously unplugged or not looking right on live data I'd start by checking the last thing done (timing) as by your own admission it wasn't doing it before.

I joke... it needs returning to be "unlocked" or you need someone with CLIP to do it for you

Throw it away and buy a new one