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This is going to be such a simple one to fix but you are going to need CLIP I'm afraid.
You have replaced the UCH which is configured differently to your vehicles actual config. Because of this the UCH is looking for something over CAN which isn't there so it is giving the solid light and is...
Keyed... piece of piss this engine. Just make sure you get the correct marking on the cam pulley as there's two and they're next to one another (Nice one Renault).
Google a local mobile diagnostic service. Doesn't have to be CLIP just something that is strong on French vehicles as I don't think an eBay ODB Scanner will help out much here.
Light on the left is the glow plug amd general fault lamp. The one on the right is the serious fault light which normally illuminates when a fault is present that prohibits the engine from starting.
Need it otherwise when you tighten up the fixings a torsional effect moves the cams and the pulleys slightly thus altering the timing that you've just set.
It won't be out by degrees but minutes count with these engines.
Yeah they are unbelievably cheap now days but the nice ones are still holding there own.
Injectors are the most common cause followed by leads, plugs and coil packs. Leads are normally bomb proof though if genuine Renault items and not Magnecrap.
Okay so it starts (?rhet)... then its 100% fek all to do with the crank sensor.
P codes are the devil plus as non of your "history" is date stamped you canmot trust them as being actual faults just yet. Generic codes may as well all say "something wrong with the car - electrical" so lets work...
Impossible to say without plugging it in. Deffo not crank sensor though as the light is flashing at 4hz... I'm not going over the meaning of the adac again as its done to death so search it out.
It is a not so common issue which is to do with the static tensioner. If the tensioners actuator/setting point goes beyond 1 o'clock the guide notch seems to hit the top of the corresponding groove in the cylinder head.
This results in a slight knocking when warm that sounds similar to the...
CLIP > Live data > Parameter PRXXX "Solenoid Position" > Value = Open/Closed... if its cycling when the dephaser *should* be advancing then it is working.
I've had a 182 Cup in before with a similar dephaser like issue (that wasn't the dephaser) and it turned out to be the timing belt...
Give them opportunity to rectify it but I personally don't think a solenoid will resolve the issue. A quick check on CLIP would show it the solenoid is functioning correctly or not!
I didn't realise you'd undertaken this task Tony. Sorting things out and taking charge of any situation is never easy and its often a thankless task. Obviously I haven't read all 39 pages but as someone who is seriously interested in this I wanted to ask if anyone had taken this on rather than...
Yeah I was gutted plus I didn't know we were eligible for access to Burpspeeds VIP hospitality area. Just checked the calendar and I've got an R26 in for belts and brakes that day so can't do the 30th but i'll come show my ginger mug and some support on the Saturday... really enjoyed the day at...
Is there any chance of someone taking charge here and creating a bullet point set of rules away from the open public to "debate" on? 39 pages of joshing mixed with actual decent thread content is too much for my enthusiasm to trawl through and i'm keen to do this myself (it may even save my 172...
The problem could be with any number of the earths on the vehicle... so you need to check them.
Start with the lighting loom earth seeing as that is where the problem is manifesting itself. They can be found near the lights themselves