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If the red LED on the keyfob isn't working then chances are it'll be as per post #2, button on the PCB has busted or broken loose from the board.
The fact the car starts with this same key says the imob is fine. I bet the CL button on the dash locks/unlocks the doors fine to... if so you need...
I'm not trying to start an argument/debate on the subject or saying in any way that the OP has been sat for months at idle. I was simply saying that a motors finite lifespan isn't measured in nor does it translate to miles covered by the vehicle.
Mick
Agreed but what you have to take into acvount is actual run time to. Its a motor at the end of the day and has a finite lifespan. Vehicle mileage doesn't translate to how many hours the pump has actually run for.
That being said this does sound a bit premature.
Don't write off Renault UK...
Servicing plays a huge part and it is more than just screwing on an oil filter, replacing oil and replacing some elements.
Electronic checks should include a cursory check of fault codes to see if anything has been flagged followed by a check of the live data to ensure things like...
I also ran the Hanks on my 172 in 195/50/16 but I had the S1 Evo (I believe the Ventus V12 is only available in 205/45/16) and they were nothing short of brilliant in both dry and wet conditiins and only found they suffered below 4°c... not as good as the PE2's but not the same price either.
If the adhesive gel wasn't replaced or refitted correctly when the new screen went in it can cause an issue but that light could be on for any number of reasons and without plugging it in you won't really know why.
Another possible is the mixer flap/position motor as this can stop it achieving a true cold blow.
Ideally though you need the HVAC system looking at on CLIP to see what is actually happening and what the computer is trying to chill at vs actual internal cabin temp.
You can try other places...
I've got this car coming in shortly so I'm sure Jonny will report back soon.
As for yours, are you sure its been bled correctly? A faulty CTS won't normally cause the need to jump about like that. Live data will confirm/deny this.
If it's the 8v D7F then the ECU is in a different place and so unlikely to be this. If though it turns out to be the 16v D4F then it is possible alomg with damaged/corroded ECU pins, bad earths, other loom issues.
I don't even bother fixong these looms anymore I just replace them with new...
Cheers i love it but its not as sexy as the Coupe (as much as I wanted the Coupe she wouldn't let me have my balls back long enough to make the decision to buy one).